Denim Garments Hand Scraping and Sand Blasting During Washing

Denim Hand Scrapping:
Sand ballasting with paper, commonly known as scrapping is the most widely used process for creating the blasting effect. It is usually done by mounting the garment on rubber balloons. After mounting the garment air balloon is filled with air to expose the area to operate. It is important to fill the pressure.

Hand sand is the step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get the distressed look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or its can be overall / global application as per the Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above , higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In the garment industry from 220 , 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used.



Sand Blasting:
Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the effect is appeared very similar to the worn out jeans.

 Area of Application:

Specified areas for sand blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel near bottom or front panel around knee. Sometime full body blasting is also done for giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for more real look on front knees or back seat by intense blasting in these areas.

Denim Garments Hand Scraping and Sand Blasting During Washing

Posted by Firoz Kabir 1 comment

Denim Hand Scrapping:
Sand ballasting with paper, commonly known as scrapping is the most widely used process for creating the blasting effect. It is usually done by mounting the garment on rubber balloons. After mounting the garment air balloon is filled with air to expose the area to operate. It is important to fill the pressure.

Hand sand is the step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get the distressed look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or its can be overall / global application as per the Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above , higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In the garment industry from 220 , 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used.



Sand Blasting:
Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the effect is appeared very similar to the worn out jeans.

 Area of Application:

Specified areas for sand blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel near bottom or front panel around knee. Sometime full body blasting is also done for giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for more real look on front knees or back seat by intense blasting in these areas.

Denim Washing | Invention of Denim Wash | Name of Denim Wash Process

Denim Wash:
Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength. Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.

Objective of denim washing:
To remove sizing materials and to soften the garment.
To modify the appearance to make fashion.
To create different effects and finishes.
To create vintage look and used effect. 
To ensure more worn out look and faded look by applying different dry processes.


Invention of denim washing:
Denim washing is a textile manufacturing process used to give a newly manufactured cloth garment a worn-in (or worn-out) appearance. Stone-washing was the first washing technique which helps to increase the softness and flexibility of otherwise stiff and rigid fabrics such as canvas and denim.
A number of people and organizations have claimed to have invented stone-­‐washing.
1. According to Levi Strauss & Co., Donald Freeland, an employee of the Great Western Garment Company (later acquired by Levi's), invented "stone-­‐washing" denim in the 1950
2. Inventor Claude Blankie thasalso been credited with having invented the technique in the 1970s.
3. The jeans company Edwin claims to have invented the technique in the 1980s.
4. In 1982, Lee introduced “stone washed” jeans. This was followed by "acid-­‐ washed" denim, which produced an even more faded look.

[Ronald Reagan wearing stone wash denim
associated with Western clothing]

Types of washes involve in denim washing:
 

Dry process:

• Denim Hand Scrapping
• Whiskers
• 3d Whisker
• Crinkle
• 3d Wrinkle
• Chevron
• Grinding
• Tacking
• Nicking
• PP Spray
• Resin
• Destroy
• Tagging
• Tying
• Laser
• Patch
• Bobbling

Wet process:

• Stone wash
• Enzyme wash
• Bleach wash
• Pigment wash
• Tinting
• Acid wash

Denim Washing | Invention of Denim Wash | Name of Denim Wash Process

Posted by Firoz Kabir 1 comment

Denim Wash:
Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength. Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.

Objective of denim washing:
To remove sizing materials and to soften the garment.
To modify the appearance to make fashion.
To create different effects and finishes.
To create vintage look and used effect. 
To ensure more worn out look and faded look by applying different dry processes.


Invention of denim washing:
Denim washing is a textile manufacturing process used to give a newly manufactured cloth garment a worn-in (or worn-out) appearance. Stone-washing was the first washing technique which helps to increase the softness and flexibility of otherwise stiff and rigid fabrics such as canvas and denim.
A number of people and organizations have claimed to have invented stone-­‐washing.
1. According to Levi Strauss & Co., Donald Freeland, an employee of the Great Western Garment Company (later acquired by Levi's), invented "stone-­‐washing" denim in the 1950
2. Inventor Claude Blankie thasalso been credited with having invented the technique in the 1970s.
3. The jeans company Edwin claims to have invented the technique in the 1980s.
4. In 1982, Lee introduced “stone washed” jeans. This was followed by "acid-­‐ washed" denim, which produced an even more faded look.

[Ronald Reagan wearing stone wash denim
associated with Western clothing]

Types of washes involve in denim washing:
 

Dry process:

• Denim Hand Scrapping
• Whiskers
• 3d Whisker
• Crinkle
• 3d Wrinkle
• Chevron
• Grinding
• Tacking
• Nicking
• PP Spray
• Resin
• Destroy
• Tagging
• Tying
• Laser
• Patch
• Bobbling

Wet process:

• Stone wash
• Enzyme wash
• Bleach wash
• Pigment wash
• Tinting
• Acid wash

Denim Fabric | Invention of Denim Fabric

Denim is a strong, durable fabric constructed in a twill weave with indigo and white yarns. The blue/indigo yarns are the lengthwise or “warp” threads (parallel to the selvedge). The white yarns run across the fabric width (the weft threads). Denim is traditionally woven with 100%-cotton yarn; however, today it’s blended with polyester, to control shrinkage and wrinkles, and Lycra to add stretch. Today, denim has many faces. It can be printed, striped, brushed, napped and stone washed, and the indigo dyed.

The evolution of the blue jeans (made from denim) market led to the development of some unique and creative methods for the processing of denim garments. Originally, jeans were marketed and sold as worker wear with primary emphasis on their durability and practicality. But when jeans were discovered and appreciated by consumers as general casual wear, they became fashionable, and new techniques were developed to enhance denim garments and make them more unique. These techniques include garment washing, stone washing, and stone washing with chlorine, acid washing, sand blast washing, ice washing, and cellulose enzyme washing. Basically, all of these techniques involve the processing of garments in rotary drum machines.

To enhance the fashion and more vintage look the dry processes in denim were invented and get popularity by the consumers. For these dry processes, jeans become making with extreme worn look, super vintage look as well as extra faded fashionable wear.

 
Characteristics of Denim Fabric:

• It is for long wearing.
• It is hard wearing.
• It is very strong and durable.
• It resists snags and tears
• It creases easily.

Types of denim fabric:

• Natural denim
• Ring spun denim
• Polycore denim
• Ring-ring denim
• Ring denim
• Bull denim
• Dual ring spun
• Black-black denim
• open end denim
• Reverse denim
• Pinto wash denim

Invention of Denim:

The word “denim” comes from the name of a sturdy fabric called serge, originally made in Nîmes, France, by the Andre family. Denim was originally called serge de Nîmes, it was then soon shortened to Denim.

Denim was originally used by workers. They wore denim clothes because of it’s durability, it was extremely strong and perfect for their daily jobs, it didn’t wear out easily making it a good fabric for the long run.
In the 1800’s, American gold miners wanted clothes that were strong and did not tear easily. To meet this demand from the miners, a man called Leob Strauss started a wholesale business, supplying clothes to people who required it. Leob and a Nevada tailor joined forces to patent an idea the tailor had for putting rivets on stress points of workman’s waist high overalls, commonly known as jeans. Strauss later changed his name from the rather plain Leob to the extremely recognizable Levi, this is when the brand Levi Strauss was created and is still extremely successful today.

 

Denim Fabric | Invention of Denim Fabric

Posted by Firoz Kabir No comments

Denim is a strong, durable fabric constructed in a twill weave with indigo and white yarns. The blue/indigo yarns are the lengthwise or “warp” threads (parallel to the selvedge). The white yarns run across the fabric width (the weft threads). Denim is traditionally woven with 100%-cotton yarn; however, today it’s blended with polyester, to control shrinkage and wrinkles, and Lycra to add stretch. Today, denim has many faces. It can be printed, striped, brushed, napped and stone washed, and the indigo dyed.

The evolution of the blue jeans (made from denim) market led to the development of some unique and creative methods for the processing of denim garments. Originally, jeans were marketed and sold as worker wear with primary emphasis on their durability and practicality. But when jeans were discovered and appreciated by consumers as general casual wear, they became fashionable, and new techniques were developed to enhance denim garments and make them more unique. These techniques include garment washing, stone washing, and stone washing with chlorine, acid washing, sand blast washing, ice washing, and cellulose enzyme washing. Basically, all of these techniques involve the processing of garments in rotary drum machines.

To enhance the fashion and more vintage look the dry processes in denim were invented and get popularity by the consumers. For these dry processes, jeans become making with extreme worn look, super vintage look as well as extra faded fashionable wear.

 
Characteristics of Denim Fabric:

• It is for long wearing.
• It is hard wearing.
• It is very strong and durable.
• It resists snags and tears
• It creases easily.

Types of denim fabric:

• Natural denim
• Ring spun denim
• Polycore denim
• Ring-ring denim
• Ring denim
• Bull denim
• Dual ring spun
• Black-black denim
• open end denim
• Reverse denim
• Pinto wash denim

Invention of Denim:

The word “denim” comes from the name of a sturdy fabric called serge, originally made in Nîmes, France, by the Andre family. Denim was originally called serge de Nîmes, it was then soon shortened to Denim.

Denim was originally used by workers. They wore denim clothes because of it’s durability, it was extremely strong and perfect for their daily jobs, it didn’t wear out easily making it a good fabric for the long run.
In the 1800’s, American gold miners wanted clothes that were strong and did not tear easily. To meet this demand from the miners, a man called Leob Strauss started a wholesale business, supplying clothes to people who required it. Leob and a Nevada tailor joined forces to patent an idea the tailor had for putting rivets on stress points of workman’s waist high overalls, commonly known as jeans. Strauss later changed his name from the rather plain Leob to the extremely recognizable Levi, this is when the brand Levi Strauss was created and is still extremely successful today.

 

Different Types of Plain Weave Fabric | Commercial Fabrics of Plain Weave

Plain weave is used in weaving many different fabrics.some standard plain woven fabrics are sheeting gingham print cloth, outing, osnaburg, voile, lawn, organdy, crinklet. Chambray, typewriter cloth, duex, percale, poplin, repp, broad cloth, ratine, critonne.

An unfinished fabrics as it comes from the loom is called gray or grey goods. Grey goods have many different names. For instance, duck is a closely woven fabric of fine yarns. Cheese cloth and tobacco cloth are of loose construction. Sometimes on name is used for the fabric in the grey and a different name for the finished cloth. For instance various weights or print cloth are renamed lawn, cretonne, and parcels according to the finish.

Variations in construction or yarn size account for additional names given to plain weave fabrics. A cloth using heavy filling yarns has a characteristic ribbed effect and is called poplin or repp.

As general rule, fabrics produced with more warp than filling threads are extra strong and serviceable because the warp threads contain more twist and are usually made of better raw material. Such cloth is used for overalls, shirting and suiting.

Cloths containing more filling than warp are commonly used in underwear and linings, because the soft filling yarns makes a soft fabrics which can be highly finished and made very attractive in appearance.
Some standard plain woven fabrics are:

Sheeting : A plain fabric woven and finished white for bed sheets and other similar uses.

Gingham: A yarn dyed fabric woven in solid colors,stripes, or checks. Used for dresses, aprons, and children`s clothes.

Print Cloth: A plain white cloth woven for the application of color by printing or other types of finish, Muslin, percale, and cretonne are the names of some fabrics made from print cloth.

Outing: A fabric woven with light sley and heavy, soft filling for napping, used for clothing, linings, etc.

Osnaburg: A service fabric made from low quality cotton waste. Used for bags, mattress covering, shoe lining, draperies, and coarse clothing.

Voile: A smooth transparent dress material made of combed yarns. Used for underwear, dresses, shirts and handkerchiefs.

Organdy: A thin transparent, wiry muslin made of fine yarns finished in white, solid color, or print.

Crinket: A stripped fabrics in which the stripes are crinkled due to a greater lot- off of yarn on the threads forming the stripes. This fabrics which is also known as seersucker is used for suitings, dresses and bedspreads.

Chambray: A type of gingham woven from a colored warp and white filling and finishing for work shirts and children`s clothes.

Type writer cloth: A fine, soft plain fabric made from Egyptain cotton or American Egyptain cotton and used for linings, typewriter ribbons, etc.

Duck: A strong, heavy service fabric woven from 2 ply warp and 2 ply filling. Used for sails, tents, trouser, etc.

Poplin: A characteristic of the poplin is the rib effect which runs across the width from selvage to selvage. This rib effect is formed by the use of heavy filling yarn and few picks per inch. Used for shirts, drap dries, gowns and robes.

Repp: A plain cloth similar in appearance to poplin expect that the ribs along the filling are more pronounced. Repp has a heavier filling ayarn and is a wider fabric used for hangings and upholstery.

Broad cloth: A fine, plain woven fabric with a poplin or transverse rib effect secured by using a high slay and light pick on the plain weave. The finest quality of broadcloth is made from 2-ply long staple cotton yarns and is highly mercerized.

Ratine: A rough appearing plain fabric woven from fancy yarns with novelty loop and color effects.

Cretonne: A plain woven fabric printed in somewhat brought and elaborate colors and patterns. It is used for hangings, upholstery, etc.

Different Types of Plain Weave Fabric | Commercial Fabrics of Plain Weave

Posted by Firoz Kabir 2 comments

Plain weave is used in weaving many different fabrics.some standard plain woven fabrics are sheeting gingham print cloth, outing, osnaburg, voile, lawn, organdy, crinklet. Chambray, typewriter cloth, duex, percale, poplin, repp, broad cloth, ratine, critonne.

An unfinished fabrics as it comes from the loom is called gray or grey goods. Grey goods have many different names. For instance, duck is a closely woven fabric of fine yarns. Cheese cloth and tobacco cloth are of loose construction. Sometimes on name is used for the fabric in the grey and a different name for the finished cloth. For instance various weights or print cloth are renamed lawn, cretonne, and parcels according to the finish.

Variations in construction or yarn size account for additional names given to plain weave fabrics. A cloth using heavy filling yarns has a characteristic ribbed effect and is called poplin or repp.

As general rule, fabrics produced with more warp than filling threads are extra strong and serviceable because the warp threads contain more twist and are usually made of better raw material. Such cloth is used for overalls, shirting and suiting.

Cloths containing more filling than warp are commonly used in underwear and linings, because the soft filling yarns makes a soft fabrics which can be highly finished and made very attractive in appearance.
Some standard plain woven fabrics are:

Sheeting : A plain fabric woven and finished white for bed sheets and other similar uses.

Gingham: A yarn dyed fabric woven in solid colors,stripes, or checks. Used for dresses, aprons, and children`s clothes.

Print Cloth: A plain white cloth woven for the application of color by printing or other types of finish, Muslin, percale, and cretonne are the names of some fabrics made from print cloth.

Outing: A fabric woven with light sley and heavy, soft filling for napping, used for clothing, linings, etc.

Osnaburg: A service fabric made from low quality cotton waste. Used for bags, mattress covering, shoe lining, draperies, and coarse clothing.

Voile: A smooth transparent dress material made of combed yarns. Used for underwear, dresses, shirts and handkerchiefs.

Organdy: A thin transparent, wiry muslin made of fine yarns finished in white, solid color, or print.

Crinket: A stripped fabrics in which the stripes are crinkled due to a greater lot- off of yarn on the threads forming the stripes. This fabrics which is also known as seersucker is used for suitings, dresses and bedspreads.

Chambray: A type of gingham woven from a colored warp and white filling and finishing for work shirts and children`s clothes.

Type writer cloth: A fine, soft plain fabric made from Egyptain cotton or American Egyptain cotton and used for linings, typewriter ribbons, etc.

Duck: A strong, heavy service fabric woven from 2 ply warp and 2 ply filling. Used for sails, tents, trouser, etc.

Poplin: A characteristic of the poplin is the rib effect which runs across the width from selvage to selvage. This rib effect is formed by the use of heavy filling yarn and few picks per inch. Used for shirts, drap dries, gowns and robes.

Repp: A plain cloth similar in appearance to poplin expect that the ribs along the filling are more pronounced. Repp has a heavier filling ayarn and is a wider fabric used for hangings and upholstery.

Broad cloth: A fine, plain woven fabric with a poplin or transverse rib effect secured by using a high slay and light pick on the plain weave. The finest quality of broadcloth is made from 2-ply long staple cotton yarns and is highly mercerized.

Ratine: A rough appearing plain fabric woven from fancy yarns with novelty loop and color effects.

Cretonne: A plain woven fabric printed in somewhat brought and elaborate colors and patterns. It is used for hangings, upholstery, etc.

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave | Fabric Structure and Design of Plain Weave

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave
Woven fabrics are constructed by interlacing one system of parallel threads at angles to another of parallel threads. The system of threads that runs lengthwise of the goods is known as the warp; the system of threads that runs across the cloth is known as filling. They are also commonly referred to as ends and picks respectively.

  The order in which the warp and filling threads interlace in a fabric is called the weave. The simplest is the plain weave in which there is an alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns, one over, one under, the entire width of the fabric.

Design for Plain Weave
Turning to Figure 1 the space between the horizontal lines at A represent warp threads, the spaces between the horizontal line B represent filling threads. On the squared paper, each square can be used to represent a warp thread over a filling or a filling thread over a warp thread. Instead of drawing a sketch of interlacing threads, as in D the interlacing can be more clearly and conveniently shown by the use of design paper as in E. Notice in the sketch that the interlacing of the first pick and the first end, shown at D lower left, indicates that a warp thread is over a filling thread.

                   Thread corresponding square on the design paper E is painted in to indicate that the warp is up that is over the filling. Just above, the warp end is under the filling. The fact that the warp thread is down is indicated on design paper by leaving the square blank.
A warp thread which is up is called a raiser, a warp thread down is called a sinker, a warp raiser is shown by a painted square, a sinker is shown by a blank square.
Painted in the design shows the weave pattern and is the first step in preparing the design. The next step is to add necessary loom directions for that particular weave pattern. These directions include the drawing in draft the chain and the reed plan.

Above is a step –by step analysis of a design for plain weave. This includes much explanatory details. All of the necessary directions for the weave are given in condensed form in the design shown at E.

Drawing in Draft
The simplest arrangement for a plain weave uses harness. When one harness is raised and the other harness is lowered, the two warp sheets form a v-shaped shed within which is laid a filling thread, placed in position by a shuttle which carries the filling through the shed. This filling is beaten into place and then the position of the two sheets of warp is reversed by lowering on harness and raising the other. This cycle of movements is already familiar to you in the names of the three primary motions of the loop: viz, shedding, piecing and beating-up.

On plain weave using two harnesses, the odd numbered warp threads are drawn in on one harness, the even numbered warp threads are drawn in on a second harness. This forms two sheets of warp-odd ends in one sheet, even ends in the other. Directions for drawing in are given in the form shown in above figure: I-E below the weave plain in the first and third warp ends are drawn in the first harness. To indicate this, paint in the first and third squares for harness No:1. The even numbered warp ends are drawn in the second harness. The order for drawing the warp threads in the harnesses has now been indicated. This is called the drawing in draft, abbreviated to D.L.D

The Chain Draft
The plan for raising  and lowering the harnesses for each pick is shown in the chain draft. The basic rule for making a chain draft from a given design and drawing draft is:
Start with the first harness in the drawing in-draft, and locate an end that is indicated in the draft are being drawn through this harness. Trace this end up to the design and see the interlacing of this end with the filling. The interlacing of this end is copied in the first vertical line of squares in the chain draft which represents the first harness. See the analysis in above figure. Locate the end drawn through the second harness and copy the interlacing of this end in the next vertical line of squares in the chain draft. Continue until all harnesses have been traced. There should be as many harness indicated in the chain draft as are shown in the drawing in draft.

Reed Plans
The  warp threads from the loop beam are first drawn through drop wires, through the handle eyes, and then through the dents of the reed. Each space between reed wires is called dent. The number of warp threads per dent may be one, two, three or more. The number varies according to the weave, the reed number, or the ends per inch desired in a given place in the fabric. For instance, fabrics of low construction may be needed one or two ends per dent, fabrics of high construction with three or more ends per dent., and other fabrics may be needed 2 ends per dent in some places and 4 or more in other places. In above figure the indicated reed draft shows two ends are to be placed in each dent in the reed.

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave | Fabric Structure and Design of Plain Weave

Posted by Firoz Kabir No comments

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave
Woven fabrics are constructed by interlacing one system of parallel threads at angles to another of parallel threads. The system of threads that runs lengthwise of the goods is known as the warp; the system of threads that runs across the cloth is known as filling. They are also commonly referred to as ends and picks respectively.

  The order in which the warp and filling threads interlace in a fabric is called the weave. The simplest is the plain weave in which there is an alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns, one over, one under, the entire width of the fabric.

Design for Plain Weave
Turning to Figure 1 the space between the horizontal lines at A represent warp threads, the spaces between the horizontal line B represent filling threads. On the squared paper, each square can be used to represent a warp thread over a filling or a filling thread over a warp thread. Instead of drawing a sketch of interlacing threads, as in D the interlacing can be more clearly and conveniently shown by the use of design paper as in E. Notice in the sketch that the interlacing of the first pick and the first end, shown at D lower left, indicates that a warp thread is over a filling thread.

                   Thread corresponding square on the design paper E is painted in to indicate that the warp is up that is over the filling. Just above, the warp end is under the filling. The fact that the warp thread is down is indicated on design paper by leaving the square blank.
A warp thread which is up is called a raiser, a warp thread down is called a sinker, a warp raiser is shown by a painted square, a sinker is shown by a blank square.
Painted in the design shows the weave pattern and is the first step in preparing the design. The next step is to add necessary loom directions for that particular weave pattern. These directions include the drawing in draft the chain and the reed plan.

Above is a step –by step analysis of a design for plain weave. This includes much explanatory details. All of the necessary directions for the weave are given in condensed form in the design shown at E.

Drawing in Draft
The simplest arrangement for a plain weave uses harness. When one harness is raised and the other harness is lowered, the two warp sheets form a v-shaped shed within which is laid a filling thread, placed in position by a shuttle which carries the filling through the shed. This filling is beaten into place and then the position of the two sheets of warp is reversed by lowering on harness and raising the other. This cycle of movements is already familiar to you in the names of the three primary motions of the loop: viz, shedding, piecing and beating-up.

On plain weave using two harnesses, the odd numbered warp threads are drawn in on one harness, the even numbered warp threads are drawn in on a second harness. This forms two sheets of warp-odd ends in one sheet, even ends in the other. Directions for drawing in are given in the form shown in above figure: I-E below the weave plain in the first and third warp ends are drawn in the first harness. To indicate this, paint in the first and third squares for harness No:1. The even numbered warp ends are drawn in the second harness. The order for drawing the warp threads in the harnesses has now been indicated. This is called the drawing in draft, abbreviated to D.L.D

The Chain Draft
The plan for raising  and lowering the harnesses for each pick is shown in the chain draft. The basic rule for making a chain draft from a given design and drawing draft is:
Start with the first harness in the drawing in-draft, and locate an end that is indicated in the draft are being drawn through this harness. Trace this end up to the design and see the interlacing of this end with the filling. The interlacing of this end is copied in the first vertical line of squares in the chain draft which represents the first harness. See the analysis in above figure. Locate the end drawn through the second harness and copy the interlacing of this end in the next vertical line of squares in the chain draft. Continue until all harnesses have been traced. There should be as many harness indicated in the chain draft as are shown in the drawing in draft.

Reed Plans
The  warp threads from the loop beam are first drawn through drop wires, through the handle eyes, and then through the dents of the reed. Each space between reed wires is called dent. The number of warp threads per dent may be one, two, three or more. The number varies according to the weave, the reed number, or the ends per inch desired in a given place in the fabric. For instance, fabrics of low construction may be needed one or two ends per dent, fabrics of high construction with three or more ends per dent., and other fabrics may be needed 2 ends per dent in some places and 4 or more in other places. In above figure the indicated reed draft shows two ends are to be placed in each dent in the reed.