Work Aids of Garments Sewing Machines | Different Types of Folders Used in Garments Sewing Machine

Posted by Firoz Kabir on Saturday, January 24, 2015 1

Work aids of sewing machines means additional working parts which are attached with the general sewing machine to increase production to reduce faults and to increase quality are called work aids. Work aids can be fitted with machine easily. In a statistics, it was seen that, a sewing machine works with 20 percent time and the next 80 percent times for fabrics handling. Fabric handling means the folding, thread trimming, placing of fabrics under the needle, shifting of bundles before & after sewing and so on. To reduce handling time i.e. to increase the production, some work aids are used with the sewing machines.

The followings are the name of work aids used in a sewing machine in now a day…

• Guide
• Compensating foot
• Stitching jig,
• Specialized pressure foot
• Rack guide
• Light
• Folders
• Slack feeding
• Elasticator
• Compressed air
• Stacker

Folder: It is one kind of work aid helps in sewing for smooth production and increase the productivity as well. It is spare parts of sewing machines used at different stages for different purposes. Different types and different gauges folders are available for stitching the garments. It folds one or more materials into the desired configuration for sewing.

Criteria of Folders:
    It is one of the sewing machine spare parts which folds one or more materials into the desired configuration.
    Folders are constructed for specific applications, which may provide for the insertion of tapes, trim fabrics, elastic and so on at the same time as the material is folded.
    It must need the skilled operator to sew the fabric by folding. Also the quality and productivity are other factors related to it. To increase the production and to ensure the quality of products, folder is used.
    It may be placed in the middle or in front of pressure foot.
    There are different types of folders are available but they are divided into three main groups as given below-
a)    To fold the parts of garments
b)    To attach the parts
c)    To attached other materials with garments finally

Function of Folders:
    To improve productivity
    Improve or maintain quality standards
    Reduce training time of operator
    Reduce fatigue of operator

Folders for shirt:

Yoke Joining Folder
 
•    Turns down the top ply and joins it to two additional ply
•    The bottom ply is then turned back to form the yoke
•    Special foot is needed


Shoulder Joining Folders:
 
•    Foot and Guide assist in turning and top stitching front and back collar bands after they have been sewn to the collar
•    Produces a consistent stitch margin along the bead

Pocket Hemming:
 
•    Used to make hem at the top of pocket


Cuff hemming (Short sleeve):

Downturn imitation cuff hemmer

•    Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts
•    May be used on lockstitch or chain stitch machines
•    Stripes and plaids are easily matched
•    Piping and other types of trim may also be added

Upturn imitation cuff hemmer
 
•    Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts
•    Must be used on lockstitch machines


CUFF hemming (long sleeve)…

UPTURNED CUFF HEMMER

•    Used on lockstitch machines with lining and face goods in short pieces
•    Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods

DOWNTURNED CUFF HEMMER

•    Used on chain stitch machines with lining in rolls and face goods in pieces or rolls
•    Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods

Closing SIDE SEAM…

•    Lap seam folders are used
•    Folder with separate width adjustment is available
•    Can also be made with a spring release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely


SLEEVE PLACKET…


•    Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on side of sleeve

•    Use to sew a continuous facing around the sleeve opening.

Folders for Jeans

BELT LOOPS…
 
•    Used for producing belt loops on double needle cover stitch machines from short strips of material
 
•    For blind stitch machines (overlap style)

Close SIDE SEAMS…

•    Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin
•    Available with spring front to allow seam clearance
•    Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity



Set ZIPPERS…
 
•    Used to attach and topstitch left zipper fly on jeans and corduroys
•    Top and bottom scrolls adjustable to achieve desired stitch margin
•    Available for all lock stitch, needle feed and compound feed machines

BOTTOM LEG hemming…
 
•    Used to hem bottom legs of dungarees and similar garments
•    Has width adjustment and spring action for seams

Join RISER SEAM…
 
•    Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin
•    Available with spring front to allow seam clearance
•    Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity