Denim Garments Hand Scraping and Sand Blasting During Washing

Denim Hand Scrapping:
Sand ballasting with paper, commonly known as scrapping is the most widely used process for creating the blasting effect. It is usually done by mounting the garment on rubber balloons. After mounting the garment air balloon is filled with air to expose the area to operate. It is important to fill the pressure.

Hand sand is the step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get the distressed look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or its can be overall / global application as per the Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above , higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In the garment industry from 220 , 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used.



Sand Blasting:
Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the effect is appeared very similar to the worn out jeans.

 Area of Application:

Specified areas for sand blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel near bottom or front panel around knee. Sometime full body blasting is also done for giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for more real look on front knees or back seat by intense blasting in these areas.

Denim Garments Hand Scraping and Sand Blasting During Washing

Posted by Firoz Kabir 1 comment

Denim Hand Scrapping:
Sand ballasting with paper, commonly known as scrapping is the most widely used process for creating the blasting effect. It is usually done by mounting the garment on rubber balloons. After mounting the garment air balloon is filled with air to expose the area to operate. It is important to fill the pressure.

Hand sand is the step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get the distressed look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or its can be overall / global application as per the Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above , higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In the garment industry from 220 , 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used.



Sand Blasting:
Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the effect is appeared very similar to the worn out jeans.

 Area of Application:

Specified areas for sand blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel near bottom or front panel around knee. Sometime full body blasting is also done for giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for more real look on front knees or back seat by intense blasting in these areas.

Denim Washing | Invention of Denim Wash | Name of Denim Wash Process

Denim Wash:
Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength. Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.

Objective of denim washing:
To remove sizing materials and to soften the garment.
To modify the appearance to make fashion.
To create different effects and finishes.
To create vintage look and used effect. 
To ensure more worn out look and faded look by applying different dry processes.


Invention of denim washing:
Denim washing is a textile manufacturing process used to give a newly manufactured cloth garment a worn-in (or worn-out) appearance. Stone-washing was the first washing technique which helps to increase the softness and flexibility of otherwise stiff and rigid fabrics such as canvas and denim.
A number of people and organizations have claimed to have invented stone-­‐washing.
1. According to Levi Strauss & Co., Donald Freeland, an employee of the Great Western Garment Company (later acquired by Levi's), invented "stone-­‐washing" denim in the 1950
2. Inventor Claude Blankie thasalso been credited with having invented the technique in the 1970s.
3. The jeans company Edwin claims to have invented the technique in the 1980s.
4. In 1982, Lee introduced “stone washed” jeans. This was followed by "acid-­‐ washed" denim, which produced an even more faded look.

[Ronald Reagan wearing stone wash denim
associated with Western clothing]

Types of washes involve in denim washing:
 

Dry process:

• Denim Hand Scrapping
• Whiskers
• 3d Whisker
• Crinkle
• 3d Wrinkle
• Chevron
• Grinding
• Tacking
• Nicking
• PP Spray
• Resin
• Destroy
• Tagging
• Tying
• Laser
• Patch
• Bobbling

Wet process:

• Stone wash
• Enzyme wash
• Bleach wash
• Pigment wash
• Tinting
• Acid wash

Denim Washing | Invention of Denim Wash | Name of Denim Wash Process

Posted by Firoz Kabir 1 comment

Denim Wash:
Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength. Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.

Objective of denim washing:
To remove sizing materials and to soften the garment.
To modify the appearance to make fashion.
To create different effects and finishes.
To create vintage look and used effect. 
To ensure more worn out look and faded look by applying different dry processes.


Invention of denim washing:
Denim washing is a textile manufacturing process used to give a newly manufactured cloth garment a worn-in (or worn-out) appearance. Stone-washing was the first washing technique which helps to increase the softness and flexibility of otherwise stiff and rigid fabrics such as canvas and denim.
A number of people and organizations have claimed to have invented stone-­‐washing.
1. According to Levi Strauss & Co., Donald Freeland, an employee of the Great Western Garment Company (later acquired by Levi's), invented "stone-­‐washing" denim in the 1950
2. Inventor Claude Blankie thasalso been credited with having invented the technique in the 1970s.
3. The jeans company Edwin claims to have invented the technique in the 1980s.
4. In 1982, Lee introduced “stone washed” jeans. This was followed by "acid-­‐ washed" denim, which produced an even more faded look.

[Ronald Reagan wearing stone wash denim
associated with Western clothing]

Types of washes involve in denim washing:
 

Dry process:

• Denim Hand Scrapping
• Whiskers
• 3d Whisker
• Crinkle
• 3d Wrinkle
• Chevron
• Grinding
• Tacking
• Nicking
• PP Spray
• Resin
• Destroy
• Tagging
• Tying
• Laser
• Patch
• Bobbling

Wet process:

• Stone wash
• Enzyme wash
• Bleach wash
• Pigment wash
• Tinting
• Acid wash

Denim Fabric | Invention of Denim Fabric

Denim is a strong, durable fabric constructed in a twill weave with indigo and white yarns. The blue/indigo yarns are the lengthwise or “warp” threads (parallel to the selvedge). The white yarns run across the fabric width (the weft threads). Denim is traditionally woven with 100%-cotton yarn; however, today it’s blended with polyester, to control shrinkage and wrinkles, and Lycra to add stretch. Today, denim has many faces. It can be printed, striped, brushed, napped and stone washed, and the indigo dyed.

The evolution of the blue jeans (made from denim) market led to the development of some unique and creative methods for the processing of denim garments. Originally, jeans were marketed and sold as worker wear with primary emphasis on their durability and practicality. But when jeans were discovered and appreciated by consumers as general casual wear, they became fashionable, and new techniques were developed to enhance denim garments and make them more unique. These techniques include garment washing, stone washing, and stone washing with chlorine, acid washing, sand blast washing, ice washing, and cellulose enzyme washing. Basically, all of these techniques involve the processing of garments in rotary drum machines.

To enhance the fashion and more vintage look the dry processes in denim were invented and get popularity by the consumers. For these dry processes, jeans become making with extreme worn look, super vintage look as well as extra faded fashionable wear.

 
Characteristics of Denim Fabric:

• It is for long wearing.
• It is hard wearing.
• It is very strong and durable.
• It resists snags and tears
• It creases easily.

Types of denim fabric:

• Natural denim
• Ring spun denim
• Polycore denim
• Ring-ring denim
• Ring denim
• Bull denim
• Dual ring spun
• Black-black denim
• open end denim
• Reverse denim
• Pinto wash denim

Invention of Denim:

The word “denim” comes from the name of a sturdy fabric called serge, originally made in Nîmes, France, by the Andre family. Denim was originally called serge de Nîmes, it was then soon shortened to Denim.

Denim was originally used by workers. They wore denim clothes because of it’s durability, it was extremely strong and perfect for their daily jobs, it didn’t wear out easily making it a good fabric for the long run.
In the 1800’s, American gold miners wanted clothes that were strong and did not tear easily. To meet this demand from the miners, a man called Leob Strauss started a wholesale business, supplying clothes to people who required it. Leob and a Nevada tailor joined forces to patent an idea the tailor had for putting rivets on stress points of workman’s waist high overalls, commonly known as jeans. Strauss later changed his name from the rather plain Leob to the extremely recognizable Levi, this is when the brand Levi Strauss was created and is still extremely successful today.

 

Denim Fabric | Invention of Denim Fabric

Posted by Firoz Kabir No comments

Denim is a strong, durable fabric constructed in a twill weave with indigo and white yarns. The blue/indigo yarns are the lengthwise or “warp” threads (parallel to the selvedge). The white yarns run across the fabric width (the weft threads). Denim is traditionally woven with 100%-cotton yarn; however, today it’s blended with polyester, to control shrinkage and wrinkles, and Lycra to add stretch. Today, denim has many faces. It can be printed, striped, brushed, napped and stone washed, and the indigo dyed.

The evolution of the blue jeans (made from denim) market led to the development of some unique and creative methods for the processing of denim garments. Originally, jeans were marketed and sold as worker wear with primary emphasis on their durability and practicality. But when jeans were discovered and appreciated by consumers as general casual wear, they became fashionable, and new techniques were developed to enhance denim garments and make them more unique. These techniques include garment washing, stone washing, and stone washing with chlorine, acid washing, sand blast washing, ice washing, and cellulose enzyme washing. Basically, all of these techniques involve the processing of garments in rotary drum machines.

To enhance the fashion and more vintage look the dry processes in denim were invented and get popularity by the consumers. For these dry processes, jeans become making with extreme worn look, super vintage look as well as extra faded fashionable wear.

 
Characteristics of Denim Fabric:

• It is for long wearing.
• It is hard wearing.
• It is very strong and durable.
• It resists snags and tears
• It creases easily.

Types of denim fabric:

• Natural denim
• Ring spun denim
• Polycore denim
• Ring-ring denim
• Ring denim
• Bull denim
• Dual ring spun
• Black-black denim
• open end denim
• Reverse denim
• Pinto wash denim

Invention of Denim:

The word “denim” comes from the name of a sturdy fabric called serge, originally made in Nîmes, France, by the Andre family. Denim was originally called serge de Nîmes, it was then soon shortened to Denim.

Denim was originally used by workers. They wore denim clothes because of it’s durability, it was extremely strong and perfect for their daily jobs, it didn’t wear out easily making it a good fabric for the long run.
In the 1800’s, American gold miners wanted clothes that were strong and did not tear easily. To meet this demand from the miners, a man called Leob Strauss started a wholesale business, supplying clothes to people who required it. Leob and a Nevada tailor joined forces to patent an idea the tailor had for putting rivets on stress points of workman’s waist high overalls, commonly known as jeans. Strauss later changed his name from the rather plain Leob to the extremely recognizable Levi, this is when the brand Levi Strauss was created and is still extremely successful today.

 

Different Types of Plain Weave Fabric | Commercial Fabrics of Plain Weave

Plain weave is used in weaving many different fabrics.some standard plain woven fabrics are sheeting gingham print cloth, outing, osnaburg, voile, lawn, organdy, crinklet. Chambray, typewriter cloth, duex, percale, poplin, repp, broad cloth, ratine, critonne.

An unfinished fabrics as it comes from the loom is called gray or grey goods. Grey goods have many different names. For instance, duck is a closely woven fabric of fine yarns. Cheese cloth and tobacco cloth are of loose construction. Sometimes on name is used for the fabric in the grey and a different name for the finished cloth. For instance various weights or print cloth are renamed lawn, cretonne, and parcels according to the finish.

Variations in construction or yarn size account for additional names given to plain weave fabrics. A cloth using heavy filling yarns has a characteristic ribbed effect and is called poplin or repp.

As general rule, fabrics produced with more warp than filling threads are extra strong and serviceable because the warp threads contain more twist and are usually made of better raw material. Such cloth is used for overalls, shirting and suiting.

Cloths containing more filling than warp are commonly used in underwear and linings, because the soft filling yarns makes a soft fabrics which can be highly finished and made very attractive in appearance.
Some standard plain woven fabrics are:

Sheeting : A plain fabric woven and finished white for bed sheets and other similar uses.

Gingham: A yarn dyed fabric woven in solid colors,stripes, or checks. Used for dresses, aprons, and children`s clothes.

Print Cloth: A plain white cloth woven for the application of color by printing or other types of finish, Muslin, percale, and cretonne are the names of some fabrics made from print cloth.

Outing: A fabric woven with light sley and heavy, soft filling for napping, used for clothing, linings, etc.

Osnaburg: A service fabric made from low quality cotton waste. Used for bags, mattress covering, shoe lining, draperies, and coarse clothing.

Voile: A smooth transparent dress material made of combed yarns. Used for underwear, dresses, shirts and handkerchiefs.

Organdy: A thin transparent, wiry muslin made of fine yarns finished in white, solid color, or print.

Crinket: A stripped fabrics in which the stripes are crinkled due to a greater lot- off of yarn on the threads forming the stripes. This fabrics which is also known as seersucker is used for suitings, dresses and bedspreads.

Chambray: A type of gingham woven from a colored warp and white filling and finishing for work shirts and children`s clothes.

Type writer cloth: A fine, soft plain fabric made from Egyptain cotton or American Egyptain cotton and used for linings, typewriter ribbons, etc.

Duck: A strong, heavy service fabric woven from 2 ply warp and 2 ply filling. Used for sails, tents, trouser, etc.

Poplin: A characteristic of the poplin is the rib effect which runs across the width from selvage to selvage. This rib effect is formed by the use of heavy filling yarn and few picks per inch. Used for shirts, drap dries, gowns and robes.

Repp: A plain cloth similar in appearance to poplin expect that the ribs along the filling are more pronounced. Repp has a heavier filling ayarn and is a wider fabric used for hangings and upholstery.

Broad cloth: A fine, plain woven fabric with a poplin or transverse rib effect secured by using a high slay and light pick on the plain weave. The finest quality of broadcloth is made from 2-ply long staple cotton yarns and is highly mercerized.

Ratine: A rough appearing plain fabric woven from fancy yarns with novelty loop and color effects.

Cretonne: A plain woven fabric printed in somewhat brought and elaborate colors and patterns. It is used for hangings, upholstery, etc.

Different Types of Plain Weave Fabric | Commercial Fabrics of Plain Weave

Posted by Firoz Kabir 2 comments

Plain weave is used in weaving many different fabrics.some standard plain woven fabrics are sheeting gingham print cloth, outing, osnaburg, voile, lawn, organdy, crinklet. Chambray, typewriter cloth, duex, percale, poplin, repp, broad cloth, ratine, critonne.

An unfinished fabrics as it comes from the loom is called gray or grey goods. Grey goods have many different names. For instance, duck is a closely woven fabric of fine yarns. Cheese cloth and tobacco cloth are of loose construction. Sometimes on name is used for the fabric in the grey and a different name for the finished cloth. For instance various weights or print cloth are renamed lawn, cretonne, and parcels according to the finish.

Variations in construction or yarn size account for additional names given to plain weave fabrics. A cloth using heavy filling yarns has a characteristic ribbed effect and is called poplin or repp.

As general rule, fabrics produced with more warp than filling threads are extra strong and serviceable because the warp threads contain more twist and are usually made of better raw material. Such cloth is used for overalls, shirting and suiting.

Cloths containing more filling than warp are commonly used in underwear and linings, because the soft filling yarns makes a soft fabrics which can be highly finished and made very attractive in appearance.
Some standard plain woven fabrics are:

Sheeting : A plain fabric woven and finished white for bed sheets and other similar uses.

Gingham: A yarn dyed fabric woven in solid colors,stripes, or checks. Used for dresses, aprons, and children`s clothes.

Print Cloth: A plain white cloth woven for the application of color by printing or other types of finish, Muslin, percale, and cretonne are the names of some fabrics made from print cloth.

Outing: A fabric woven with light sley and heavy, soft filling for napping, used for clothing, linings, etc.

Osnaburg: A service fabric made from low quality cotton waste. Used for bags, mattress covering, shoe lining, draperies, and coarse clothing.

Voile: A smooth transparent dress material made of combed yarns. Used for underwear, dresses, shirts and handkerchiefs.

Organdy: A thin transparent, wiry muslin made of fine yarns finished in white, solid color, or print.

Crinket: A stripped fabrics in which the stripes are crinkled due to a greater lot- off of yarn on the threads forming the stripes. This fabrics which is also known as seersucker is used for suitings, dresses and bedspreads.

Chambray: A type of gingham woven from a colored warp and white filling and finishing for work shirts and children`s clothes.

Type writer cloth: A fine, soft plain fabric made from Egyptain cotton or American Egyptain cotton and used for linings, typewriter ribbons, etc.

Duck: A strong, heavy service fabric woven from 2 ply warp and 2 ply filling. Used for sails, tents, trouser, etc.

Poplin: A characteristic of the poplin is the rib effect which runs across the width from selvage to selvage. This rib effect is formed by the use of heavy filling yarn and few picks per inch. Used for shirts, drap dries, gowns and robes.

Repp: A plain cloth similar in appearance to poplin expect that the ribs along the filling are more pronounced. Repp has a heavier filling ayarn and is a wider fabric used for hangings and upholstery.

Broad cloth: A fine, plain woven fabric with a poplin or transverse rib effect secured by using a high slay and light pick on the plain weave. The finest quality of broadcloth is made from 2-ply long staple cotton yarns and is highly mercerized.

Ratine: A rough appearing plain fabric woven from fancy yarns with novelty loop and color effects.

Cretonne: A plain woven fabric printed in somewhat brought and elaborate colors and patterns. It is used for hangings, upholstery, etc.

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave | Fabric Structure and Design of Plain Weave

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave
Woven fabrics are constructed by interlacing one system of parallel threads at angles to another of parallel threads. The system of threads that runs lengthwise of the goods is known as the warp; the system of threads that runs across the cloth is known as filling. They are also commonly referred to as ends and picks respectively.

  The order in which the warp and filling threads interlace in a fabric is called the weave. The simplest is the plain weave in which there is an alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns, one over, one under, the entire width of the fabric.

Design for Plain Weave
Turning to Figure 1 the space between the horizontal lines at A represent warp threads, the spaces between the horizontal line B represent filling threads. On the squared paper, each square can be used to represent a warp thread over a filling or a filling thread over a warp thread. Instead of drawing a sketch of interlacing threads, as in D the interlacing can be more clearly and conveniently shown by the use of design paper as in E. Notice in the sketch that the interlacing of the first pick and the first end, shown at D lower left, indicates that a warp thread is over a filling thread.

                   Thread corresponding square on the design paper E is painted in to indicate that the warp is up that is over the filling. Just above, the warp end is under the filling. The fact that the warp thread is down is indicated on design paper by leaving the square blank.
A warp thread which is up is called a raiser, a warp thread down is called a sinker, a warp raiser is shown by a painted square, a sinker is shown by a blank square.
Painted in the design shows the weave pattern and is the first step in preparing the design. The next step is to add necessary loom directions for that particular weave pattern. These directions include the drawing in draft the chain and the reed plan.

Above is a step –by step analysis of a design for plain weave. This includes much explanatory details. All of the necessary directions for the weave are given in condensed form in the design shown at E.

Drawing in Draft
The simplest arrangement for a plain weave uses harness. When one harness is raised and the other harness is lowered, the two warp sheets form a v-shaped shed within which is laid a filling thread, placed in position by a shuttle which carries the filling through the shed. This filling is beaten into place and then the position of the two sheets of warp is reversed by lowering on harness and raising the other. This cycle of movements is already familiar to you in the names of the three primary motions of the loop: viz, shedding, piecing and beating-up.

On plain weave using two harnesses, the odd numbered warp threads are drawn in on one harness, the even numbered warp threads are drawn in on a second harness. This forms two sheets of warp-odd ends in one sheet, even ends in the other. Directions for drawing in are given in the form shown in above figure: I-E below the weave plain in the first and third warp ends are drawn in the first harness. To indicate this, paint in the first and third squares for harness No:1. The even numbered warp ends are drawn in the second harness. The order for drawing the warp threads in the harnesses has now been indicated. This is called the drawing in draft, abbreviated to D.L.D

The Chain Draft
The plan for raising  and lowering the harnesses for each pick is shown in the chain draft. The basic rule for making a chain draft from a given design and drawing draft is:
Start with the first harness in the drawing in-draft, and locate an end that is indicated in the draft are being drawn through this harness. Trace this end up to the design and see the interlacing of this end with the filling. The interlacing of this end is copied in the first vertical line of squares in the chain draft which represents the first harness. See the analysis in above figure. Locate the end drawn through the second harness and copy the interlacing of this end in the next vertical line of squares in the chain draft. Continue until all harnesses have been traced. There should be as many harness indicated in the chain draft as are shown in the drawing in draft.

Reed Plans
The  warp threads from the loop beam are first drawn through drop wires, through the handle eyes, and then through the dents of the reed. Each space between reed wires is called dent. The number of warp threads per dent may be one, two, three or more. The number varies according to the weave, the reed number, or the ends per inch desired in a given place in the fabric. For instance, fabrics of low construction may be needed one or two ends per dent, fabrics of high construction with three or more ends per dent., and other fabrics may be needed 2 ends per dent in some places and 4 or more in other places. In above figure the indicated reed draft shows two ends are to be placed in each dent in the reed.

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave | Fabric Structure and Design of Plain Weave

Posted by Firoz Kabir No comments

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave
Woven fabrics are constructed by interlacing one system of parallel threads at angles to another of parallel threads. The system of threads that runs lengthwise of the goods is known as the warp; the system of threads that runs across the cloth is known as filling. They are also commonly referred to as ends and picks respectively.

  The order in which the warp and filling threads interlace in a fabric is called the weave. The simplest is the plain weave in which there is an alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns, one over, one under, the entire width of the fabric.

Design for Plain Weave
Turning to Figure 1 the space between the horizontal lines at A represent warp threads, the spaces between the horizontal line B represent filling threads. On the squared paper, each square can be used to represent a warp thread over a filling or a filling thread over a warp thread. Instead of drawing a sketch of interlacing threads, as in D the interlacing can be more clearly and conveniently shown by the use of design paper as in E. Notice in the sketch that the interlacing of the first pick and the first end, shown at D lower left, indicates that a warp thread is over a filling thread.

                   Thread corresponding square on the design paper E is painted in to indicate that the warp is up that is over the filling. Just above, the warp end is under the filling. The fact that the warp thread is down is indicated on design paper by leaving the square blank.
A warp thread which is up is called a raiser, a warp thread down is called a sinker, a warp raiser is shown by a painted square, a sinker is shown by a blank square.
Painted in the design shows the weave pattern and is the first step in preparing the design. The next step is to add necessary loom directions for that particular weave pattern. These directions include the drawing in draft the chain and the reed plan.

Above is a step –by step analysis of a design for plain weave. This includes much explanatory details. All of the necessary directions for the weave are given in condensed form in the design shown at E.

Drawing in Draft
The simplest arrangement for a plain weave uses harness. When one harness is raised and the other harness is lowered, the two warp sheets form a v-shaped shed within which is laid a filling thread, placed in position by a shuttle which carries the filling through the shed. This filling is beaten into place and then the position of the two sheets of warp is reversed by lowering on harness and raising the other. This cycle of movements is already familiar to you in the names of the three primary motions of the loop: viz, shedding, piecing and beating-up.

On plain weave using two harnesses, the odd numbered warp threads are drawn in on one harness, the even numbered warp threads are drawn in on a second harness. This forms two sheets of warp-odd ends in one sheet, even ends in the other. Directions for drawing in are given in the form shown in above figure: I-E below the weave plain in the first and third warp ends are drawn in the first harness. To indicate this, paint in the first and third squares for harness No:1. The even numbered warp ends are drawn in the second harness. The order for drawing the warp threads in the harnesses has now been indicated. This is called the drawing in draft, abbreviated to D.L.D

The Chain Draft
The plan for raising  and lowering the harnesses for each pick is shown in the chain draft. The basic rule for making a chain draft from a given design and drawing draft is:
Start with the first harness in the drawing in-draft, and locate an end that is indicated in the draft are being drawn through this harness. Trace this end up to the design and see the interlacing of this end with the filling. The interlacing of this end is copied in the first vertical line of squares in the chain draft which represents the first harness. See the analysis in above figure. Locate the end drawn through the second harness and copy the interlacing of this end in the next vertical line of squares in the chain draft. Continue until all harnesses have been traced. There should be as many harness indicated in the chain draft as are shown in the drawing in draft.

Reed Plans
The  warp threads from the loop beam are first drawn through drop wires, through the handle eyes, and then through the dents of the reed. Each space between reed wires is called dent. The number of warp threads per dent may be one, two, three or more. The number varies according to the weave, the reed number, or the ends per inch desired in a given place in the fabric. For instance, fabrics of low construction may be needed one or two ends per dent, fabrics of high construction with three or more ends per dent., and other fabrics may be needed 2 ends per dent in some places and 4 or more in other places. In above figure the indicated reed draft shows two ends are to be placed in each dent in the reed.

Definition of Fabric Structure and Design | Difeferent Types of Weave of Fabrics

Cloth, like any other manufactured article, must be planned before it can be manufactured article, must be planned before it can be manufactured. To plan a weave structure for a fabric, one must have knowledge of the various methods of interlining threads to form cloth and some understanding of the mechanism of the loom. If color is used, the designer must have insight into the problems of planning color combinations and knowledge of color arrangements are provided for a loop. This advance planning of a fabric is called textile design and the person responsible for the plan is called a textile designer. A textile designer working with woven design is usually a person with textile school training and most invariably a man since the entrance to the business is through textile engineering.

                    Commercial artists plan the designs used on printed cloth. The design might conceivably be unprinted on part, on cloth, or on plaster and be equally artistic and satisfactory in any of these mediums. For the artist, the cloth is merely a background for the design which is printed on the cloth after it is woven. This designer is usually trained in an art school, is primarily interested in the color and form of his design, not in the cloth background. If he specializes in designs for textiles, his business is identified as a textile design and he may be called a textile designer. Both men and women enter this field.

Since the term “textile design” may properly refer to two very different activities, it is desirable to know which meaning is intended. This course is restricted to the consideration of woven design and the problems weave of weave structure, and are prepared for textile engineering students interested in fabric construction.

Classification of Weave
The ways in which the filling yarns are in laced with the warps change the appearance of the fabrics and produce many intricate designs that are woven into the cloth.
Weaves are named according to the design or system followed in interlacing warp and filling yarns. The different weaves are names as follow:-

• Plain
• Twill
• Satin
• Pile
• Jacquard
• Dobby
• Leno or ganze
• Swivel
• Lappet
• Clip spot
• Schiffli Embroidery

Definition of Fabric Structure and Design | Difeferent Types of Weave of Fabrics

Posted by Firoz Kabir No comments

Cloth, like any other manufactured article, must be planned before it can be manufactured article, must be planned before it can be manufactured. To plan a weave structure for a fabric, one must have knowledge of the various methods of interlining threads to form cloth and some understanding of the mechanism of the loom. If color is used, the designer must have insight into the problems of planning color combinations and knowledge of color arrangements are provided for a loop. This advance planning of a fabric is called textile design and the person responsible for the plan is called a textile designer. A textile designer working with woven design is usually a person with textile school training and most invariably a man since the entrance to the business is through textile engineering.

                    Commercial artists plan the designs used on printed cloth. The design might conceivably be unprinted on part, on cloth, or on plaster and be equally artistic and satisfactory in any of these mediums. For the artist, the cloth is merely a background for the design which is printed on the cloth after it is woven. This designer is usually trained in an art school, is primarily interested in the color and form of his design, not in the cloth background. If he specializes in designs for textiles, his business is identified as a textile design and he may be called a textile designer. Both men and women enter this field.

Since the term “textile design” may properly refer to two very different activities, it is desirable to know which meaning is intended. This course is restricted to the consideration of woven design and the problems weave of weave structure, and are prepared for textile engineering students interested in fabric construction.

Classification of Weave
The ways in which the filling yarns are in laced with the warps change the appearance of the fabrics and produce many intricate designs that are woven into the cloth.
Weaves are named according to the design or system followed in interlacing warp and filling yarns. The different weaves are names as follow:-

• Plain
• Twill
• Satin
• Pile
• Jacquard
• Dobby
• Leno or ganze
• Swivel
• Lappet
• Clip spot
• Schiffli Embroidery

Basic Difference Between Garments Trims and Accessories

Garments manufacturing is the ultimate goal of other textile manufacturing processes. Fiber to yarn and yarn to fabric then dyeing or printing and after that cloths are made through fabric with some trimmings and accessories. In case of garments making, fabric is the basic raw material which is sewn into ready made cloth with the help of sewing threads as well as others trims like as button, zipper, interlining etc. Some materials of are used to make garment directly and some are used as additional for marketing purposes or pricing as well as branding also. Now we will discuss about the term trimmings or trims and accessories which are commonly used in the apparel industries.

We the people of textile manufacturing are well known about the word “ trims and accessories”, that used for complete ready made wear making. some of the people confused which item are Trim or which item are Accessories.

The Basic difference between trims and accessories are described on below.

Trimmings (Trims)
The items which are attached with the body of garments directly and used as functional item.

As example:
01. Button
02. Care Label
03. Size Label
04. Main Label
05. Metal Badge
06. Interlining
07. Sewing Thread
08.Elastic.
09.Zipper

10. Button
11.Lace/Tape, etc.

Accessories:
The items improvement the beautification of clothing and related of garments finishing and packing make a garment presentable without attaching with it by sewing , that's item called accessories.

As example:
01.Poly Bag
02.Hang Tag
03.Loop Pin
04.Carton
05.Gum Tape
06. Silica Gel
07.Tissue Paper
08.Back Board
09.Butterfly.
10. Neck Board
11.Price Ticket
12. Collar Insert
13.Hanger ,etc.

Article is Written By

Robin Hossain
Merchandiser
NewAge Group

Email: mdrobin123@gmail.com

Basic Difference Between Garments Trims and Accessories

Posted by Firoz Kabir 1 comment

Garments manufacturing is the ultimate goal of other textile manufacturing processes. Fiber to yarn and yarn to fabric then dyeing or printing and after that cloths are made through fabric with some trimmings and accessories. In case of garments making, fabric is the basic raw material which is sewn into ready made cloth with the help of sewing threads as well as others trims like as button, zipper, interlining etc. Some materials of are used to make garment directly and some are used as additional for marketing purposes or pricing as well as branding also. Now we will discuss about the term trimmings or trims and accessories which are commonly used in the apparel industries.

We the people of textile manufacturing are well known about the word “ trims and accessories”, that used for complete ready made wear making. some of the people confused which item are Trim or which item are Accessories.

The Basic difference between trims and accessories are described on below.

Trimmings (Trims)
The items which are attached with the body of garments directly and used as functional item.

As example:
01. Button
02. Care Label
03. Size Label
04. Main Label
05. Metal Badge
06. Interlining
07. Sewing Thread
08.Elastic.
09.Zipper

10. Button
11.Lace/Tape, etc.

Accessories:
The items improvement the beautification of clothing and related of garments finishing and packing make a garment presentable without attaching with it by sewing , that's item called accessories.

As example:
01.Poly Bag
02.Hang Tag
03.Loop Pin
04.Carton
05.Gum Tape
06. Silica Gel
07.Tissue Paper
08.Back Board
09.Butterfly.
10. Neck Board
11.Price Ticket
12. Collar Insert
13.Hanger ,etc.

Article is Written By

Robin Hossain
Merchandiser
NewAge Group

Email: mdrobin123@gmail.com

Textile Engineering Books | Fiber, Yarn, Fabric, Dyeing, Printing, Garments Books

Textile engineering has four basic departments or branches as yarn spinning, fabric manufacturing, wet processing, apparel manufacturing where others branches are related as textile fiber, textile testing and quality control, fabric structure and design, fashion design, technical textile etc. During a full course of undergraduate all the basic courses are included so the students would have to know about all the fields related with this subject. 

For preparing yourself as a student you may not need hundreds of books for reference because most of the case teachers helps to get a lecture sheet where they can find all those things they will be asked in examination, but if you want to explore your knowledge though out textile department you might need a huge collection of textile reference books.

Books can give enormous knowledge to develop a student and also helps for higher study or any kind research. Thousands of books have been published across the world throughout the decades where wood head publishing plays a great role for this sector. Textile or clothing an ancient to dynamic branch of engineering which has reached at a condition with huge change and modification in fiber using, comfort ability and different fashion.

We have a small collection of textile books which are available in portable document format (PDF) as free download or free accessing opportunity through out textile aid blog. 

If you want any book from the below list you would first make a small contribution for this blog as writing an article to publish with full original and unique content (Copy Paste Content from Internet is not acceptable). You can choose any field from textile for your article which might be as practical experience or deep study from books.

Dept of Yarn Manufacturing Engineering

1. Textile reference book for spinning
2. Drawing
3. Fundamentals of spun yarn technology
4. Ring hand book
5. Uster statisic

Dept. of Fabric Manufacturing Engineering

1. Knitting technology
2. Textile reference book for knitting
3. Fabric structure and design
4. First book of modern lace knitting
5. Hand book of weaving
6. Handbook of textile design
7. Reference books of textile technologies-weaving

Dept of wet processing Engineering

1. Absorbent Technology
2. Chemical Technology in the pre treatment processes of textiles
3. Chemical Technology of textile fibers
4. Chemistry & technology
5. Chemistry & technology of fabric preparation & finishing
6. Encyclopedia of textile finishing
7. Handbook of detegents
8. Textile reference book for finishing
9. Textile printing technology
10. Textile processing with enzymes
11. The finishing of textile fabrics
12. Basic principles of textile coloration
13. Color space abd its divisions
14. Dyes and pigments
15. Environmenta aspects of textile dyeing
16. Industrial dyes
17. Textile dyes
18. The chemistry of dyeing
19. Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibers

Dept of Apparel Manufacturing Engineering

1. Advances in carpet manufacture
2. Sewing machine operational manual
3. Innovation and technology of womens intimate apparel
4. Engineering of apparel fabrics and garments
5. Fashion drawing
6. fashion marketing
7. The apparel industry

Fashion Design

1. Figure drawing for fashion designFashion drawing
2. fashion marketing
3. Fashion drawing
4. Hand Book of textile desing

Textile Fiber

1. Bast and other plant fibers
2. Cotton science and technology
3. Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibers
4. Fiber bragg fratings
5. Physical properties of textile fibers
6. Polymer chemistry
7. Smart fibers, fabric and clothing
8. Synthetic fibers
9. Textile reference book for man made fibers

Technical Textile

1. Hand book of fiber optic data communication
2. Military textiles
3. Nonwoven fabrics
4. Textile in automotive engineering
5. Composite forming technologies
6. Design and manufacture of textile composites
7. Fung W. coated and laminated textiles
8. Handbook of technical textiles
9. High performance fibers
10. Recycling in textile
11. Wound Management and dressings

Textile Glossary

1. Complete textile glossary
2. Dye glossary
3. Textile glossary filament acetate

Textile testing and quality control

1. Fabric testing

Other Books

1. Textile Calculation

65 Textile Engineering free books you can download after contributing a little for our promotion through out the internet. You article will publish with full of your identity (Pic, Work Place, Email id, cell etc what you want to publish).

Your small contribution can help any other a lot because no body can learn all the things perfectly, so share your interested topics what you learned as best throughout your study or practical job.

Article Send to:

fkweb24@gmail.com

textile_aid@yahoo.com

firoztx@gmail.com

Firoz Kabir

Textile Aid

Textile Engineering Books | Fiber, Yarn, Fabric, Dyeing, Printing, Garments Books

Posted by Firoz Kabir 3 comments

Textile engineering has four basic departments or branches as yarn spinning, fabric manufacturing, wet processing, apparel manufacturing where others branches are related as textile fiber, textile testing and quality control, fabric structure and design, fashion design, technical textile etc. During a full course of undergraduate all the basic courses are included so the students would have to know about all the fields related with this subject. 

For preparing yourself as a student you may not need hundreds of books for reference because most of the case teachers helps to get a lecture sheet where they can find all those things they will be asked in examination, but if you want to explore your knowledge though out textile department you might need a huge collection of textile reference books.

Books can give enormous knowledge to develop a student and also helps for higher study or any kind research. Thousands of books have been published across the world throughout the decades where wood head publishing plays a great role for this sector. Textile or clothing an ancient to dynamic branch of engineering which has reached at a condition with huge change and modification in fiber using, comfort ability and different fashion.

We have a small collection of textile books which are available in portable document format (PDF) as free download or free accessing opportunity through out textile aid blog. 

If you want any book from the below list you would first make a small contribution for this blog as writing an article to publish with full original and unique content (Copy Paste Content from Internet is not acceptable). You can choose any field from textile for your article which might be as practical experience or deep study from books.

Dept of Yarn Manufacturing Engineering

1. Textile reference book for spinning
2. Drawing
3. Fundamentals of spun yarn technology
4. Ring hand book
5. Uster statisic

Dept. of Fabric Manufacturing Engineering

1. Knitting technology
2. Textile reference book for knitting
3. Fabric structure and design
4. First book of modern lace knitting
5. Hand book of weaving
6. Handbook of textile design
7. Reference books of textile technologies-weaving

Dept of wet processing Engineering

1. Absorbent Technology
2. Chemical Technology in the pre treatment processes of textiles
3. Chemical Technology of textile fibers
4. Chemistry & technology
5. Chemistry & technology of fabric preparation & finishing
6. Encyclopedia of textile finishing
7. Handbook of detegents
8. Textile reference book for finishing
9. Textile printing technology
10. Textile processing with enzymes
11. The finishing of textile fabrics
12. Basic principles of textile coloration
13. Color space abd its divisions
14. Dyes and pigments
15. Environmenta aspects of textile dyeing
16. Industrial dyes
17. Textile dyes
18. The chemistry of dyeing
19. Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibers

Dept of Apparel Manufacturing Engineering

1. Advances in carpet manufacture
2. Sewing machine operational manual
3. Innovation and technology of womens intimate apparel
4. Engineering of apparel fabrics and garments
5. Fashion drawing
6. fashion marketing
7. The apparel industry

Fashion Design

1. Figure drawing for fashion designFashion drawing
2. fashion marketing
3. Fashion drawing
4. Hand Book of textile desing

Textile Fiber

1. Bast and other plant fibers
2. Cotton science and technology
3. Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibers
4. Fiber bragg fratings
5. Physical properties of textile fibers
6. Polymer chemistry
7. Smart fibers, fabric and clothing
8. Synthetic fibers
9. Textile reference book for man made fibers

Technical Textile

1. Hand book of fiber optic data communication
2. Military textiles
3. Nonwoven fabrics
4. Textile in automotive engineering
5. Composite forming technologies
6. Design and manufacture of textile composites
7. Fung W. coated and laminated textiles
8. Handbook of technical textiles
9. High performance fibers
10. Recycling in textile
11. Wound Management and dressings

Textile Glossary

1. Complete textile glossary
2. Dye glossary
3. Textile glossary filament acetate

Textile testing and quality control

1. Fabric testing

Other Books

1. Textile Calculation

65 Textile Engineering free books you can download after contributing a little for our promotion through out the internet. You article will publish with full of your identity (Pic, Work Place, Email id, cell etc what you want to publish).

Your small contribution can help any other a lot because no body can learn all the things perfectly, so share your interested topics what you learned as best throughout your study or practical job.

Article Send to:

fkweb24@gmail.com

textile_aid@yahoo.com

firoztx@gmail.com

Firoz Kabir

Textile Aid

Laser Print and Laser Fading on Denim Garment Washing | Procedure of Laser treatment on Garments

Laser fading (Marking) is a popular dry process for denim now a day. It has been used extensively as the replacement of some conventional dry processes which are potentially harmful and disadvantageous in some manner. Apart from this, Laser systems are used in fashion design, pleating, cutting and modification of fabric surface to impart some special finish. Laser fading works with better precision butalso have some drawbacks.

A laser system generates monochromatic, coherent photons in a low-divergent beam.
As monochromatic, the light is of a single color. As coherent, all the emissions originate from a stable oscillator with a uniform constant frequency and have the same wavelength

Advantage of laser
•    Any design at any place
•    Faster process
•    High accuracy
•    Suitable for wide range of material
•    Comparatively less strength loss
•    Low hairiness
•    Environment friendly
•    Zero water waste
•    Requires no chemical
•    Less manpower required

Disadvantage of laser
•    Initial investment is very high
•    Skilled operator is needed, which might be a disadvantage in some particular circumstances
•    Producing natural effect might be difficult
•    The laser beam itself and the produced fumes are health hazardous
•    Maintenance and servicing of the laser system may be troublesome in some circumstances

Mechanism of laser fading

Transfer certain designs onto the surface of textile material by changing the dye molecules in the fabric and creating alterations in its color quality by directing the laser to the material at reduced intensity.
The surface mtl experience photodecomposition resulting the expose of white warp yarn
The laser action on the colored denim fibers is mainly carried out with the indigo color, by thermal effect.
A pair of high-speed computer-controlled mirrors moves the laser beam on the denim material
Various levels of color removal with little or no damage to the denim material are achieved by using different laser parameters.
Through this process micrographics can be applied on the garment; special logos or characters can be applied to denim products.
laser beams from CO2 laser (wavelength: 10600 nm) applied to denim fabric in various pulse times.

Laser M/C component:

• In order to determine the optimum process conditions of laser fading technology, a laser surface design machine was used.
• The specifications of the machine:
• A laser source operating along a galvanometer consisting of a mirror and a computer operating program that controls the galvanometer mirrors and the power of the laser beam.
• Nominal power of the machine: 250Watt.
• Wavelength of the laser beams: 196nm-235nm
• CO laser =10600 nm.
• Pulse times: 20-350 μs.

Laser Print and Laser Fading on Denim Garment Washing | Procedure of Laser treatment on Garments

Posted by Firoz Kabir 1 comment

Laser fading (Marking) is a popular dry process for denim now a day. It has been used extensively as the replacement of some conventional dry processes which are potentially harmful and disadvantageous in some manner. Apart from this, Laser systems are used in fashion design, pleating, cutting and modification of fabric surface to impart some special finish. Laser fading works with better precision butalso have some drawbacks.

A laser system generates monochromatic, coherent photons in a low-divergent beam.
As monochromatic, the light is of a single color. As coherent, all the emissions originate from a stable oscillator with a uniform constant frequency and have the same wavelength

Advantage of laser
•    Any design at any place
•    Faster process
•    High accuracy
•    Suitable for wide range of material
•    Comparatively less strength loss
•    Low hairiness
•    Environment friendly
•    Zero water waste
•    Requires no chemical
•    Less manpower required

Disadvantage of laser
•    Initial investment is very high
•    Skilled operator is needed, which might be a disadvantage in some particular circumstances
•    Producing natural effect might be difficult
•    The laser beam itself and the produced fumes are health hazardous
•    Maintenance and servicing of the laser system may be troublesome in some circumstances

Mechanism of laser fading

Transfer certain designs onto the surface of textile material by changing the dye molecules in the fabric and creating alterations in its color quality by directing the laser to the material at reduced intensity.
The surface mtl experience photodecomposition resulting the expose of white warp yarn
The laser action on the colored denim fibers is mainly carried out with the indigo color, by thermal effect.
A pair of high-speed computer-controlled mirrors moves the laser beam on the denim material
Various levels of color removal with little or no damage to the denim material are achieved by using different laser parameters.
Through this process micrographics can be applied on the garment; special logos or characters can be applied to denim products.
laser beams from CO2 laser (wavelength: 10600 nm) applied to denim fabric in various pulse times.

Laser M/C component:

• In order to determine the optimum process conditions of laser fading technology, a laser surface design machine was used.
• The specifications of the machine:
• A laser source operating along a galvanometer consisting of a mirror and a computer operating program that controls the galvanometer mirrors and the power of the laser beam.
• Nominal power of the machine: 250Watt.
• Wavelength of the laser beams: 196nm-235nm
• CO laser =10600 nm.
• Pulse times: 20-350 μs.