Different Types of Plain Weave Fabric | Commercial Fabrics of Plain Weave

Plain weave is used in weaving many different fabrics.some standard plain woven fabrics are sheeting gingham print cloth, outing, osnaburg, voile, lawn, organdy, crinklet. Chambray, typewriter cloth, duex, percale, poplin, repp, broad cloth, ratine, critonne.

An unfinished fabrics as it comes from the loom is called gray or grey goods. Grey goods have many different names. For instance, duck is a closely woven fabric of fine yarns. Cheese cloth and tobacco cloth are of loose construction. Sometimes on name is used for the fabric in the grey and a different name for the finished cloth. For instance various weights or print cloth are renamed lawn, cretonne, and parcels according to the finish.

Variations in construction or yarn size account for additional names given to plain weave fabrics. A cloth using heavy filling yarns has a characteristic ribbed effect and is called poplin or repp.

As general rule, fabrics produced with more warp than filling threads are extra strong and serviceable because the warp threads contain more twist and are usually made of better raw material. Such cloth is used for overalls, shirting and suiting.

Cloths containing more filling than warp are commonly used in underwear and linings, because the soft filling yarns makes a soft fabrics which can be highly finished and made very attractive in appearance.
Some standard plain woven fabrics are:

Sheeting : A plain fabric woven and finished white for bed sheets and other similar uses.

Gingham: A yarn dyed fabric woven in solid colors,stripes, or checks. Used for dresses, aprons, and children`s clothes.

Print Cloth: A plain white cloth woven for the application of color by printing or other types of finish, Muslin, percale, and cretonne are the names of some fabrics made from print cloth.

Outing: A fabric woven with light sley and heavy, soft filling for napping, used for clothing, linings, etc.

Osnaburg: A service fabric made from low quality cotton waste. Used for bags, mattress covering, shoe lining, draperies, and coarse clothing.

Voile: A smooth transparent dress material made of combed yarns. Used for underwear, dresses, shirts and handkerchiefs.

Organdy: A thin transparent, wiry muslin made of fine yarns finished in white, solid color, or print.

Crinket: A stripped fabrics in which the stripes are crinkled due to a greater lot- off of yarn on the threads forming the stripes. This fabrics which is also known as seersucker is used for suitings, dresses and bedspreads.

Chambray: A type of gingham woven from a colored warp and white filling and finishing for work shirts and children`s clothes.

Type writer cloth: A fine, soft plain fabric made from Egyptain cotton or American Egyptain cotton and used for linings, typewriter ribbons, etc.

Duck: A strong, heavy service fabric woven from 2 ply warp and 2 ply filling. Used for sails, tents, trouser, etc.

Poplin: A characteristic of the poplin is the rib effect which runs across the width from selvage to selvage. This rib effect is formed by the use of heavy filling yarn and few picks per inch. Used for shirts, drap dries, gowns and robes.

Repp: A plain cloth similar in appearance to poplin expect that the ribs along the filling are more pronounced. Repp has a heavier filling ayarn and is a wider fabric used for hangings and upholstery.

Broad cloth: A fine, plain woven fabric with a poplin or transverse rib effect secured by using a high slay and light pick on the plain weave. The finest quality of broadcloth is made from 2-ply long staple cotton yarns and is highly mercerized.

Ratine: A rough appearing plain fabric woven from fancy yarns with novelty loop and color effects.

Cretonne: A plain woven fabric printed in somewhat brought and elaborate colors and patterns. It is used for hangings, upholstery, etc.

Different Types of Plain Weave Fabric | Commercial Fabrics of Plain Weave

Posted by Firoz Kabir 2 comments

Plain weave is used in weaving many different fabrics.some standard plain woven fabrics are sheeting gingham print cloth, outing, osnaburg, voile, lawn, organdy, crinklet. Chambray, typewriter cloth, duex, percale, poplin, repp, broad cloth, ratine, critonne.

An unfinished fabrics as it comes from the loom is called gray or grey goods. Grey goods have many different names. For instance, duck is a closely woven fabric of fine yarns. Cheese cloth and tobacco cloth are of loose construction. Sometimes on name is used for the fabric in the grey and a different name for the finished cloth. For instance various weights or print cloth are renamed lawn, cretonne, and parcels according to the finish.

Variations in construction or yarn size account for additional names given to plain weave fabrics. A cloth using heavy filling yarns has a characteristic ribbed effect and is called poplin or repp.

As general rule, fabrics produced with more warp than filling threads are extra strong and serviceable because the warp threads contain more twist and are usually made of better raw material. Such cloth is used for overalls, shirting and suiting.

Cloths containing more filling than warp are commonly used in underwear and linings, because the soft filling yarns makes a soft fabrics which can be highly finished and made very attractive in appearance.
Some standard plain woven fabrics are:

Sheeting : A plain fabric woven and finished white for bed sheets and other similar uses.

Gingham: A yarn dyed fabric woven in solid colors,stripes, or checks. Used for dresses, aprons, and children`s clothes.

Print Cloth: A plain white cloth woven for the application of color by printing or other types of finish, Muslin, percale, and cretonne are the names of some fabrics made from print cloth.

Outing: A fabric woven with light sley and heavy, soft filling for napping, used for clothing, linings, etc.

Osnaburg: A service fabric made from low quality cotton waste. Used for bags, mattress covering, shoe lining, draperies, and coarse clothing.

Voile: A smooth transparent dress material made of combed yarns. Used for underwear, dresses, shirts and handkerchiefs.

Organdy: A thin transparent, wiry muslin made of fine yarns finished in white, solid color, or print.

Crinket: A stripped fabrics in which the stripes are crinkled due to a greater lot- off of yarn on the threads forming the stripes. This fabrics which is also known as seersucker is used for suitings, dresses and bedspreads.

Chambray: A type of gingham woven from a colored warp and white filling and finishing for work shirts and children`s clothes.

Type writer cloth: A fine, soft plain fabric made from Egyptain cotton or American Egyptain cotton and used for linings, typewriter ribbons, etc.

Duck: A strong, heavy service fabric woven from 2 ply warp and 2 ply filling. Used for sails, tents, trouser, etc.

Poplin: A characteristic of the poplin is the rib effect which runs across the width from selvage to selvage. This rib effect is formed by the use of heavy filling yarn and few picks per inch. Used for shirts, drap dries, gowns and robes.

Repp: A plain cloth similar in appearance to poplin expect that the ribs along the filling are more pronounced. Repp has a heavier filling ayarn and is a wider fabric used for hangings and upholstery.

Broad cloth: A fine, plain woven fabric with a poplin or transverse rib effect secured by using a high slay and light pick on the plain weave. The finest quality of broadcloth is made from 2-ply long staple cotton yarns and is highly mercerized.

Ratine: A rough appearing plain fabric woven from fancy yarns with novelty loop and color effects.

Cretonne: A plain woven fabric printed in somewhat brought and elaborate colors and patterns. It is used for hangings, upholstery, etc.

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave | Fabric Structure and Design of Plain Weave

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave
Woven fabrics are constructed by interlacing one system of parallel threads at angles to another of parallel threads. The system of threads that runs lengthwise of the goods is known as the warp; the system of threads that runs across the cloth is known as filling. They are also commonly referred to as ends and picks respectively.

  The order in which the warp and filling threads interlace in a fabric is called the weave. The simplest is the plain weave in which there is an alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns, one over, one under, the entire width of the fabric.

Design for Plain Weave
Turning to Figure 1 the space between the horizontal lines at A represent warp threads, the spaces between the horizontal line B represent filling threads. On the squared paper, each square can be used to represent a warp thread over a filling or a filling thread over a warp thread. Instead of drawing a sketch of interlacing threads, as in D the interlacing can be more clearly and conveniently shown by the use of design paper as in E. Notice in the sketch that the interlacing of the first pick and the first end, shown at D lower left, indicates that a warp thread is over a filling thread.

                   Thread corresponding square on the design paper E is painted in to indicate that the warp is up that is over the filling. Just above, the warp end is under the filling. The fact that the warp thread is down is indicated on design paper by leaving the square blank.
A warp thread which is up is called a raiser, a warp thread down is called a sinker, a warp raiser is shown by a painted square, a sinker is shown by a blank square.
Painted in the design shows the weave pattern and is the first step in preparing the design. The next step is to add necessary loom directions for that particular weave pattern. These directions include the drawing in draft the chain and the reed plan.

Above is a step –by step analysis of a design for plain weave. This includes much explanatory details. All of the necessary directions for the weave are given in condensed form in the design shown at E.

Drawing in Draft
The simplest arrangement for a plain weave uses harness. When one harness is raised and the other harness is lowered, the two warp sheets form a v-shaped shed within which is laid a filling thread, placed in position by a shuttle which carries the filling through the shed. This filling is beaten into place and then the position of the two sheets of warp is reversed by lowering on harness and raising the other. This cycle of movements is already familiar to you in the names of the three primary motions of the loop: viz, shedding, piecing and beating-up.

On plain weave using two harnesses, the odd numbered warp threads are drawn in on one harness, the even numbered warp threads are drawn in on a second harness. This forms two sheets of warp-odd ends in one sheet, even ends in the other. Directions for drawing in are given in the form shown in above figure: I-E below the weave plain in the first and third warp ends are drawn in the first harness. To indicate this, paint in the first and third squares for harness No:1. The even numbered warp ends are drawn in the second harness. The order for drawing the warp threads in the harnesses has now been indicated. This is called the drawing in draft, abbreviated to D.L.D

The Chain Draft
The plan for raising  and lowering the harnesses for each pick is shown in the chain draft. The basic rule for making a chain draft from a given design and drawing draft is:
Start with the first harness in the drawing in-draft, and locate an end that is indicated in the draft are being drawn through this harness. Trace this end up to the design and see the interlacing of this end with the filling. The interlacing of this end is copied in the first vertical line of squares in the chain draft which represents the first harness. See the analysis in above figure. Locate the end drawn through the second harness and copy the interlacing of this end in the next vertical line of squares in the chain draft. Continue until all harnesses have been traced. There should be as many harness indicated in the chain draft as are shown in the drawing in draft.

Reed Plans
The  warp threads from the loop beam are first drawn through drop wires, through the handle eyes, and then through the dents of the reed. Each space between reed wires is called dent. The number of warp threads per dent may be one, two, three or more. The number varies according to the weave, the reed number, or the ends per inch desired in a given place in the fabric. For instance, fabrics of low construction may be needed one or two ends per dent, fabrics of high construction with three or more ends per dent., and other fabrics may be needed 2 ends per dent in some places and 4 or more in other places. In above figure the indicated reed draft shows two ends are to be placed in each dent in the reed.

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave | Fabric Structure and Design of Plain Weave

Posted by Firoz Kabir No comments

Fabric Construction of Plain Weave
Woven fabrics are constructed by interlacing one system of parallel threads at angles to another of parallel threads. The system of threads that runs lengthwise of the goods is known as the warp; the system of threads that runs across the cloth is known as filling. They are also commonly referred to as ends and picks respectively.

  The order in which the warp and filling threads interlace in a fabric is called the weave. The simplest is the plain weave in which there is an alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns, one over, one under, the entire width of the fabric.

Design for Plain Weave
Turning to Figure 1 the space between the horizontal lines at A represent warp threads, the spaces between the horizontal line B represent filling threads. On the squared paper, each square can be used to represent a warp thread over a filling or a filling thread over a warp thread. Instead of drawing a sketch of interlacing threads, as in D the interlacing can be more clearly and conveniently shown by the use of design paper as in E. Notice in the sketch that the interlacing of the first pick and the first end, shown at D lower left, indicates that a warp thread is over a filling thread.

                   Thread corresponding square on the design paper E is painted in to indicate that the warp is up that is over the filling. Just above, the warp end is under the filling. The fact that the warp thread is down is indicated on design paper by leaving the square blank.
A warp thread which is up is called a raiser, a warp thread down is called a sinker, a warp raiser is shown by a painted square, a sinker is shown by a blank square.
Painted in the design shows the weave pattern and is the first step in preparing the design. The next step is to add necessary loom directions for that particular weave pattern. These directions include the drawing in draft the chain and the reed plan.

Above is a step –by step analysis of a design for plain weave. This includes much explanatory details. All of the necessary directions for the weave are given in condensed form in the design shown at E.

Drawing in Draft
The simplest arrangement for a plain weave uses harness. When one harness is raised and the other harness is lowered, the two warp sheets form a v-shaped shed within which is laid a filling thread, placed in position by a shuttle which carries the filling through the shed. This filling is beaten into place and then the position of the two sheets of warp is reversed by lowering on harness and raising the other. This cycle of movements is already familiar to you in the names of the three primary motions of the loop: viz, shedding, piecing and beating-up.

On plain weave using two harnesses, the odd numbered warp threads are drawn in on one harness, the even numbered warp threads are drawn in on a second harness. This forms two sheets of warp-odd ends in one sheet, even ends in the other. Directions for drawing in are given in the form shown in above figure: I-E below the weave plain in the first and third warp ends are drawn in the first harness. To indicate this, paint in the first and third squares for harness No:1. The even numbered warp ends are drawn in the second harness. The order for drawing the warp threads in the harnesses has now been indicated. This is called the drawing in draft, abbreviated to D.L.D

The Chain Draft
The plan for raising  and lowering the harnesses for each pick is shown in the chain draft. The basic rule for making a chain draft from a given design and drawing draft is:
Start with the first harness in the drawing in-draft, and locate an end that is indicated in the draft are being drawn through this harness. Trace this end up to the design and see the interlacing of this end with the filling. The interlacing of this end is copied in the first vertical line of squares in the chain draft which represents the first harness. See the analysis in above figure. Locate the end drawn through the second harness and copy the interlacing of this end in the next vertical line of squares in the chain draft. Continue until all harnesses have been traced. There should be as many harness indicated in the chain draft as are shown in the drawing in draft.

Reed Plans
The  warp threads from the loop beam are first drawn through drop wires, through the handle eyes, and then through the dents of the reed. Each space between reed wires is called dent. The number of warp threads per dent may be one, two, three or more. The number varies according to the weave, the reed number, or the ends per inch desired in a given place in the fabric. For instance, fabrics of low construction may be needed one or two ends per dent, fabrics of high construction with three or more ends per dent., and other fabrics may be needed 2 ends per dent in some places and 4 or more in other places. In above figure the indicated reed draft shows two ends are to be placed in each dent in the reed.

Definition of Fabric Structure and Design | Difeferent Types of Weave of Fabrics

Cloth, like any other manufactured article, must be planned before it can be manufactured article, must be planned before it can be manufactured. To plan a weave structure for a fabric, one must have knowledge of the various methods of interlining threads to form cloth and some understanding of the mechanism of the loom. If color is used, the designer must have insight into the problems of planning color combinations and knowledge of color arrangements are provided for a loop. This advance planning of a fabric is called textile design and the person responsible for the plan is called a textile designer. A textile designer working with woven design is usually a person with textile school training and most invariably a man since the entrance to the business is through textile engineering.

                    Commercial artists plan the designs used on printed cloth. The design might conceivably be unprinted on part, on cloth, or on plaster and be equally artistic and satisfactory in any of these mediums. For the artist, the cloth is merely a background for the design which is printed on the cloth after it is woven. This designer is usually trained in an art school, is primarily interested in the color and form of his design, not in the cloth background. If he specializes in designs for textiles, his business is identified as a textile design and he may be called a textile designer. Both men and women enter this field.

Since the term “textile design” may properly refer to two very different activities, it is desirable to know which meaning is intended. This course is restricted to the consideration of woven design and the problems weave of weave structure, and are prepared for textile engineering students interested in fabric construction.

Classification of Weave
The ways in which the filling yarns are in laced with the warps change the appearance of the fabrics and produce many intricate designs that are woven into the cloth.
Weaves are named according to the design or system followed in interlacing warp and filling yarns. The different weaves are names as follow:-

• Plain
• Twill
• Satin
• Pile
• Jacquard
• Dobby
• Leno or ganze
• Swivel
• Lappet
• Clip spot
• Schiffli Embroidery

Definition of Fabric Structure and Design | Difeferent Types of Weave of Fabrics

Posted by Firoz Kabir No comments

Cloth, like any other manufactured article, must be planned before it can be manufactured article, must be planned before it can be manufactured. To plan a weave structure for a fabric, one must have knowledge of the various methods of interlining threads to form cloth and some understanding of the mechanism of the loom. If color is used, the designer must have insight into the problems of planning color combinations and knowledge of color arrangements are provided for a loop. This advance planning of a fabric is called textile design and the person responsible for the plan is called a textile designer. A textile designer working with woven design is usually a person with textile school training and most invariably a man since the entrance to the business is through textile engineering.

                    Commercial artists plan the designs used on printed cloth. The design might conceivably be unprinted on part, on cloth, or on plaster and be equally artistic and satisfactory in any of these mediums. For the artist, the cloth is merely a background for the design which is printed on the cloth after it is woven. This designer is usually trained in an art school, is primarily interested in the color and form of his design, not in the cloth background. If he specializes in designs for textiles, his business is identified as a textile design and he may be called a textile designer. Both men and women enter this field.

Since the term “textile design” may properly refer to two very different activities, it is desirable to know which meaning is intended. This course is restricted to the consideration of woven design and the problems weave of weave structure, and are prepared for textile engineering students interested in fabric construction.

Classification of Weave
The ways in which the filling yarns are in laced with the warps change the appearance of the fabrics and produce many intricate designs that are woven into the cloth.
Weaves are named according to the design or system followed in interlacing warp and filling yarns. The different weaves are names as follow:-

• Plain
• Twill
• Satin
• Pile
• Jacquard
• Dobby
• Leno or ganze
• Swivel
• Lappet
• Clip spot
• Schiffli Embroidery