Work Aids of Garments Sewing Machines | Different Types of Folders Used in Garments Sewing Machine

Work aids of sewing machines means additional working parts which are attached with the general sewing machine to increase production to reduce faults and to increase quality are called work aids. Work aids can be fitted with machine easily. In a statistics, it was seen that, a sewing machine works with 20 percent time and the next 80 percent times for fabrics handling. Fabric handling means the folding, thread trimming, placing of fabrics under the needle, shifting of bundles before & after sewing and so on. To reduce handling time i.e. to increase the production, some work aids are used with the sewing machines.

The followings are the name of work aids used in a sewing machine in now a day…

• Guide
• Compensating foot
• Stitching jig,
• Specialized pressure foot
• Rack guide
• Light
• Folders
• Slack feeding
• Elasticator
• Compressed air
• Stacker

Folder: It is one kind of work aid helps in sewing for smooth production and increase the productivity as well. It is spare parts of sewing machines used at different stages for different purposes. Different types and different gauges folders are available for stitching the garments. It folds one or more materials into the desired configuration for sewing.

Criteria of Folders:
    It is one of the sewing machine spare parts which folds one or more materials into the desired configuration.
    Folders are constructed for specific applications, which may provide for the insertion of tapes, trim fabrics, elastic and so on at the same time as the material is folded.
    It must need the skilled operator to sew the fabric by folding. Also the quality and productivity are other factors related to it. To increase the production and to ensure the quality of products, folder is used.
    It may be placed in the middle or in front of pressure foot.
    There are different types of folders are available but they are divided into three main groups as given below-
a)    To fold the parts of garments
b)    To attach the parts
c)    To attached other materials with garments finally

Function of Folders:
    To improve productivity
    Improve or maintain quality standards
    Reduce training time of operator
    Reduce fatigue of operator

Folders for shirt:

Yoke Joining Folder
 
•    Turns down the top ply and joins it to two additional ply
•    The bottom ply is then turned back to form the yoke
•    Special foot is needed


Shoulder Joining Folders:
 
•    Foot and Guide assist in turning and top stitching front and back collar bands after they have been sewn to the collar
•    Produces a consistent stitch margin along the bead

Pocket Hemming:
 
•    Used to make hem at the top of pocket


Cuff hemming (Short sleeve):

Downturn imitation cuff hemmer

•    Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts
•    May be used on lockstitch or chain stitch machines
•    Stripes and plaids are easily matched
•    Piping and other types of trim may also be added

Upturn imitation cuff hemmer
 
•    Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts
•    Must be used on lockstitch machines


CUFF hemming (long sleeve)…

UPTURNED CUFF HEMMER

•    Used on lockstitch machines with lining and face goods in short pieces
•    Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods

DOWNTURNED CUFF HEMMER

•    Used on chain stitch machines with lining in rolls and face goods in pieces or rolls
•    Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods

Closing SIDE SEAM…

•    Lap seam folders are used
•    Folder with separate width adjustment is available
•    Can also be made with a spring release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely


SLEEVE PLACKET…


•    Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on side of sleeve

•    Use to sew a continuous facing around the sleeve opening.

Folders for Jeans

BELT LOOPS…
 
•    Used for producing belt loops on double needle cover stitch machines from short strips of material
 
•    For blind stitch machines (overlap style)

Close SIDE SEAMS…

•    Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin
•    Available with spring front to allow seam clearance
•    Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity



Set ZIPPERS…
 
•    Used to attach and topstitch left zipper fly on jeans and corduroys
•    Top and bottom scrolls adjustable to achieve desired stitch margin
•    Available for all lock stitch, needle feed and compound feed machines

BOTTOM LEG hemming…
 
•    Used to hem bottom legs of dungarees and similar garments
•    Has width adjustment and spring action for seams

Join RISER SEAM…
 
•    Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin
•    Available with spring front to allow seam clearance
•    Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity

Work Aids of Garments Sewing Machines | Different Types of Folders Used in Garments Sewing Machine

Posted by Firoz Kabir 1 comment

Work aids of sewing machines means additional working parts which are attached with the general sewing machine to increase production to reduce faults and to increase quality are called work aids. Work aids can be fitted with machine easily. In a statistics, it was seen that, a sewing machine works with 20 percent time and the next 80 percent times for fabrics handling. Fabric handling means the folding, thread trimming, placing of fabrics under the needle, shifting of bundles before & after sewing and so on. To reduce handling time i.e. to increase the production, some work aids are used with the sewing machines.

The followings are the name of work aids used in a sewing machine in now a day…

• Guide
• Compensating foot
• Stitching jig,
• Specialized pressure foot
• Rack guide
• Light
• Folders
• Slack feeding
• Elasticator
• Compressed air
• Stacker

Folder: It is one kind of work aid helps in sewing for smooth production and increase the productivity as well. It is spare parts of sewing machines used at different stages for different purposes. Different types and different gauges folders are available for stitching the garments. It folds one or more materials into the desired configuration for sewing.

Criteria of Folders:
    It is one of the sewing machine spare parts which folds one or more materials into the desired configuration.
    Folders are constructed for specific applications, which may provide for the insertion of tapes, trim fabrics, elastic and so on at the same time as the material is folded.
    It must need the skilled operator to sew the fabric by folding. Also the quality and productivity are other factors related to it. To increase the production and to ensure the quality of products, folder is used.
    It may be placed in the middle or in front of pressure foot.
    There are different types of folders are available but they are divided into three main groups as given below-
a)    To fold the parts of garments
b)    To attach the parts
c)    To attached other materials with garments finally

Function of Folders:
    To improve productivity
    Improve or maintain quality standards
    Reduce training time of operator
    Reduce fatigue of operator

Folders for shirt:

Yoke Joining Folder
 
•    Turns down the top ply and joins it to two additional ply
•    The bottom ply is then turned back to form the yoke
•    Special foot is needed


Shoulder Joining Folders:
 
•    Foot and Guide assist in turning and top stitching front and back collar bands after they have been sewn to the collar
•    Produces a consistent stitch margin along the bead

Pocket Hemming:
 
•    Used to make hem at the top of pocket


Cuff hemming (Short sleeve):

Downturn imitation cuff hemmer

•    Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts
•    May be used on lockstitch or chain stitch machines
•    Stripes and plaids are easily matched
•    Piping and other types of trim may also be added

Upturn imitation cuff hemmer
 
•    Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts
•    Must be used on lockstitch machines


CUFF hemming (long sleeve)…

UPTURNED CUFF HEMMER

•    Used on lockstitch machines with lining and face goods in short pieces
•    Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods

DOWNTURNED CUFF HEMMER

•    Used on chain stitch machines with lining in rolls and face goods in pieces or rolls
•    Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods

Closing SIDE SEAM…

•    Lap seam folders are used
•    Folder with separate width adjustment is available
•    Can also be made with a spring release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely


SLEEVE PLACKET…


•    Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on side of sleeve

•    Use to sew a continuous facing around the sleeve opening.

Folders for Jeans

BELT LOOPS…
 
•    Used for producing belt loops on double needle cover stitch machines from short strips of material
 
•    For blind stitch machines (overlap style)

Close SIDE SEAMS…

•    Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin
•    Available with spring front to allow seam clearance
•    Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity



Set ZIPPERS…
 
•    Used to attach and topstitch left zipper fly on jeans and corduroys
•    Top and bottom scrolls adjustable to achieve desired stitch margin
•    Available for all lock stitch, needle feed and compound feed machines

BOTTOM LEG hemming…
 
•    Used to hem bottom legs of dungarees and similar garments
•    Has width adjustment and spring action for seams

Join RISER SEAM…
 
•    Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin
•    Available with spring front to allow seam clearance
•    Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity

Special Type of Printing on Fabric and Garments | Modern Printing Technologies

Printing on fabric is another technique of coloring textile materials with the help of printing paste by applying different types of printing methods according to the specific design. Printing is also called as specific area dyeing. Print fabrics become more stiff and gets sufficient strength as well.

We know about different types of printing which are going on from hundreds years and conventionally these common type of printings are using till now. But now we will introduce about some of the new printing techniques, they have not been used by industry as large scale but has been started with industrial use as well.

Some special type of printing:

• High Density Printing
• Ink Jet Printing
• Digital Printing
• Flock Printing
• Puff printing
• Foil Printing
• Discharge printing
• Pigment Printing
• Glitter Printing
• Suede Ink Printing
• Sticker Print

High Density printing:

High Density printing is the process of printing a specially formulated ink through a very thick stencil to achieve a raised, glossy smooth print with very sharp edges. Unlike Puff inks, which have a flat, rounded and somewhat dull appearance, High Density prints result in bright, glossy distinct colors. The result is an appliqué effect similar the "welding" or radio wave embossing. High Density printing is done using basically standard textile screen printing procedures and equipment, with some variations. High density printing is done through a process of adding layers of ink on top of one another to create depth with innovative, 3D graphics.

Flock Printing:

This process involves printing of glue on the fabric first, applying the fiber flock on the gel printed by keeping the fabric on special table , Flocking is the process of depositing many small fiber particles (called flock) onto a surface. It can also refer to the texture produced by the process, or to any material used primarily for its flocked surface.

Flocking is the application of fine particles to adhesive coated surfaces. Nowadays, this is usually done by the application of a high-voltage electric field. In a Flocking Machine the "flock" is given a negative charge whilst the substrate is earthed. Flock material flies vertically onto the substrate attaching to previously applies glue. A number of different substrates can be Flocked including; textiles, fabric, woven fabric, paper, PVC, sponge, toys, automotive plastic.

Foil Print:

This printing method is based on the use of metallic foil paper of aluminum or copper one.

 Foil printing is done conventionally using UV formulated transparent inks. Transparent inks are used to allow the reflective quality of the foil and the embossing effect to be appreciated. Any color or number of colors can be specified. The embossing process imparts the three dimensional or "illusion of movement" effect and is carried out from plates made to interact with the printed image. The plates are designed after careful study of the printed image in order to capture the natural reflective phenomena of the real object. It is this that creates the almost holographic appearance of the printed image. Further treatment of the surrounding background area can enhance the three dimensional effect or create the "Illusion of Movement".

A thin sheet of metal. One of the three types of sword used in fencing (also sabre and epee) Dramatic foil: a character that emphasizes another character's qualities by acting as a counterpoint to them.

 

Puff printing:

An additive to Plastisol inks which raises the print off the garment, creating a 3D feel. In this method when the paste is printed and dries it look like normal printing garments but once it is cured the prints gets raised from the surface of fabric.

Puff inks are created by mixing a specially formulated base in with the ink. The base-ink mix expands (“puffs”) as the print is cured through the heat tunnel, leaving a 3D texture. Puff inks are also available in a wide range of colours.

Suede and Puff inks contain an additive that causes the ink to swell as it cures for a high-density effect. Puff inks are often used in Children's fashion but can be creatively used to create areas on the garment that imitate embroidery stitches for a multimedia look.

Digital Printing:

 Digital printing is a simple and low-cost printing method for photographs and similar designs with many colors. This method can only be used on white and very light-colored t-shirts. This print is also not meant to last for a long time. Washing will cause the colors to fade over time. Digital printing would require a bitmap image for the print. A color laser printer prints the image onto a transfer foil which is then heat-pressed onto the shirt.

Glitter Print:

Metallic flakes are suspended in the ink base to create this sparkle effect. Usually available in gold or silver but can be mixed to make most colours.

Special Type of Printing on Fabric and Garments | Modern Printing Technologies

Posted by Firoz Kabir No comments

Printing on fabric is another technique of coloring textile materials with the help of printing paste by applying different types of printing methods according to the specific design. Printing is also called as specific area dyeing. Print fabrics become more stiff and gets sufficient strength as well.

We know about different types of printing which are going on from hundreds years and conventionally these common type of printings are using till now. But now we will introduce about some of the new printing techniques, they have not been used by industry as large scale but has been started with industrial use as well.

Some special type of printing:

• High Density Printing
• Ink Jet Printing
• Digital Printing
• Flock Printing
• Puff printing
• Foil Printing
• Discharge printing
• Pigment Printing
• Glitter Printing
• Suede Ink Printing
• Sticker Print

High Density printing:

High Density printing is the process of printing a specially formulated ink through a very thick stencil to achieve a raised, glossy smooth print with very sharp edges. Unlike Puff inks, which have a flat, rounded and somewhat dull appearance, High Density prints result in bright, glossy distinct colors. The result is an appliqué effect similar the "welding" or radio wave embossing. High Density printing is done using basically standard textile screen printing procedures and equipment, with some variations. High density printing is done through a process of adding layers of ink on top of one another to create depth with innovative, 3D graphics.

Flock Printing:

This process involves printing of glue on the fabric first, applying the fiber flock on the gel printed by keeping the fabric on special table , Flocking is the process of depositing many small fiber particles (called flock) onto a surface. It can also refer to the texture produced by the process, or to any material used primarily for its flocked surface.

Flocking is the application of fine particles to adhesive coated surfaces. Nowadays, this is usually done by the application of a high-voltage electric field. In a Flocking Machine the "flock" is given a negative charge whilst the substrate is earthed. Flock material flies vertically onto the substrate attaching to previously applies glue. A number of different substrates can be Flocked including; textiles, fabric, woven fabric, paper, PVC, sponge, toys, automotive plastic.

Foil Print:

This printing method is based on the use of metallic foil paper of aluminum or copper one.

 Foil printing is done conventionally using UV formulated transparent inks. Transparent inks are used to allow the reflective quality of the foil and the embossing effect to be appreciated. Any color or number of colors can be specified. The embossing process imparts the three dimensional or "illusion of movement" effect and is carried out from plates made to interact with the printed image. The plates are designed after careful study of the printed image in order to capture the natural reflective phenomena of the real object. It is this that creates the almost holographic appearance of the printed image. Further treatment of the surrounding background area can enhance the three dimensional effect or create the "Illusion of Movement".

A thin sheet of metal. One of the three types of sword used in fencing (also sabre and epee) Dramatic foil: a character that emphasizes another character's qualities by acting as a counterpoint to them.

 

Puff printing:

An additive to Plastisol inks which raises the print off the garment, creating a 3D feel. In this method when the paste is printed and dries it look like normal printing garments but once it is cured the prints gets raised from the surface of fabric.

Puff inks are created by mixing a specially formulated base in with the ink. The base-ink mix expands (“puffs”) as the print is cured through the heat tunnel, leaving a 3D texture. Puff inks are also available in a wide range of colours.

Suede and Puff inks contain an additive that causes the ink to swell as it cures for a high-density effect. Puff inks are often used in Children's fashion but can be creatively used to create areas on the garment that imitate embroidery stitches for a multimedia look.

Digital Printing:

 Digital printing is a simple and low-cost printing method for photographs and similar designs with many colors. This method can only be used on white and very light-colored t-shirts. This print is also not meant to last for a long time. Washing will cause the colors to fade over time. Digital printing would require a bitmap image for the print. A color laser printer prints the image onto a transfer foil which is then heat-pressed onto the shirt.

Glitter Print:

Metallic flakes are suspended in the ink base to create this sparkle effect. Usually available in gold or silver but can be mixed to make most colours.

Textile Dyeing Chemicals and Auxiliaries | Yarn and Fabric Dyeing Assistance

Dyeing of textile materials such as fiber, yarn, fabric or garments is a process of imparting color to these material through different dyeing processes and procedures in machines with the help of different dyestuffs and dyeing assistance. Different types of dyeing assistants are described as below which are most important.

 

Anti-creasing Agent:
For anti-creasing treatment a suitable polymer precurson is used which either reacts with hydroxyl groups in the cellulose to form cross links between adjacent polymer chain or it polymerises in the amorphous regions of the fiber. Cross links between adjacent polymer chain considerably limit the movement of the cellulose molecules so that creasing is more difficult.
The types of chemicals used for crease resistant for cotton are condensation products of the urea-formaldehyde. 

This are
a)    Urea / Formaldehyde(U/F)
      e.g.  Dimethylol urea.
b)    Melamine / Formaldehyde
e.g. Trimethylol Melamine
c)    Dimethylol ethylene urea (DMEU)
d)    Dimethylol-4,5-Dihudroxyethylene urea(DMDHEU)
 

Sequestering agent:
A sequestering or chelating agent is a complex forming auxiliary chemical with metals such as Iron, Copper, Nickel, Zinc & Magnesium that are present in water and affects the textile processing in many way. Certain organic compounds are capable of forming coordinate bonds with metals through two or more atoms of the organic compound; Such organic compounds are called chelating agents.

EDTA (CO2CH2)2NCH2CH2N(CH2CO2)2 is a common hex dentate chelating agent. Chlorophyll is a chelate that consists of a magnesium ion. Part of hemoglobin in blood is an iron chelate. Chelating agents are important in textile dyeing. Water softening and enzyme deactivation and as bactericides. Chelating agent eliminates water hardness & heavy metals Such as iron and copper which can affect the scouring process.

Some sequestering agents are -  
•    Tetra sodium pyrophosphate (TSPP)
•    Tripoly sodium phosphate (TSP)
•    Ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid (EDTA)
•    Nitrilo triacetic acid (NTA)
•    Ethylene diamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid) [EDTMP]
 

Wetting agent (Surfactants):
The word “Surfactants” is coined from the expression “Surface active agent”. As the phrase implies, a surfactant molecule possesses surface activity, a property associated with the chemical structure of the molecule. A few primary functions of auxiliaries are: 

•  To prepare the material perfectly for coloration or to enhance whiteness of white goods.
• To improve sorption characteristics of the colorants by acceleration, retardation, blocking or migration.
• To stabilize colorant in the application media by improving solubility, dispersion, emulsification, preventing or promoting oxidation or reduction, etc.
• To improve fastness of dyes.

Classification Wetting agent:
The surfactants used as textile auxiliaries can be divided into four major groups, depending on the type and distribution of the polar forces as shown in table –

CLASS    HYDROPHOBIC    HYDROPHILIC
Anionic    Weakly negative    Strongly positive
Cationic    Weakly positive    Strongly negative
Nonionic    Unchanged    Unchanged
Amphotaric    Both positive & negative    Both positive & negative

Salt:
For level dyeing of cotton fiber with reactive dye we need two types of force in the dye bath. These are:-
•    Force of attraction: - Which should be developed between the dye molecule and fiber.
•    Force of repulsion: - Which should be developed between the dye molecule and water.

But when the fiber is in water it become (-)ve charged and the dye in water is also (-) vely charged. So following condition arise.  

Mechanism of salt in textile dyeing
 

OBA(Optical Brightening Agent):
The OBA possesses the property of fluorescence which means that they can absorb shorter wave-length light and re-emit it at longer wave-lengths. It absorbs invisible ultra-violet rays and re-emits them within the visible spectrum. So substance contain OBA can emit more than the total amount of daylight that falls on it, giving an intensity brilliant white.
For cotton fiber anionic OBA is used.
 

Enzyme:
Enzymes are high molecular weight protein biocatalyst that is very specific in their action. Enzymes are named after the compound they break down, for example, Amylase breaks down amylose and amylopectin. Maltase breaks down maltase and cellulose breaks down cellulose.

Enzyme consists of three-dimensional proteins that are composed of polypeptide chains. However, the mechanism of hydrolysis of cellulosic material is complicated. The enzymes have a specific three dimensional shape and have a true active center in the form of fissures, holes, pockets, cavities or hollows. These are adsorbed onto the surface of some substrate in lock and key fashion. At the active side of the enzyme, hydrolysis of he substrate is accelerated. The product of decomposition of the substrate is formed and the enzyme is released to be reabsorbed onto a different location on the substrate. The process continues until the enzyme is deactivated by conditions in the processing bath.
Others dyeing auxiliaries are-

 Detergent: It is mainly used for cleaning grey fabric.

Anti-foaming Agent: It is used to protect foam during dyeing.

Stabilizer: It is used for removing iron of water. It also increase the activity of  H2O2.

Oil remover: It is used to remove oil or oil type substance.

Caustic soda or NaOH: It is used to clean the fabric. It is the main chemical of scouring process. When it is used in Dye bath, then it is used to fix up the Dye molecule in the fabric surface.
 

Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2): It is used as a Bleaching agent. It is used to remove the natural colour of grey fabric. It makes the fabric more white . Other name of it Brightening agent. It is also used to remove waste of detergent, caustic & fabric.

Peroxide killer: It is used to remove the action of  H2O2. Enzyme base H2O2 killer is used in DELTA.

Acetic Acid: In scouring bath Acetic Acid is used for pH    controlling . After treatment, it is used for neutralizing, Because  before using Acid, soda must be used. For this reason, to neutralize  that chamber Acid must be used.

Leveling: It is used for level or even dyeing .

Gluber salt (Na2SO4.10H2O): It acts as carrier. It bears dye molecule into fiber      surface. In other word, It reaches the dye   molecule     into fiber surface     properly but not fix up. In this treatment, at about     20% dye fixation is     completed.

Soda ash: It is used to attach the dye molecule into fabric surface. It is also used  to fix up the dye molecule into the fabric surface. After soaping, if carrier is used then colour must be removed (this operation is performed when     more dark shade will appear but needed light colour).

Soaping:  It is used to clean the fabric.

Softener: It is used for soft. It makes the dyed fabric more soft or     smoothness. It increase the smoothness of dyed fabric.

Fixing agent: It is used to fix up the extra colour.

Textile Dyeing Chemicals and Auxiliaries | Yarn and Fabric Dyeing Assistance

Posted by Firoz Kabir 2 comments

Dyeing of textile materials such as fiber, yarn, fabric or garments is a process of imparting color to these material through different dyeing processes and procedures in machines with the help of different dyestuffs and dyeing assistance. Different types of dyeing assistants are described as below which are most important.

 

Anti-creasing Agent:
For anti-creasing treatment a suitable polymer precurson is used which either reacts with hydroxyl groups in the cellulose to form cross links between adjacent polymer chain or it polymerises in the amorphous regions of the fiber. Cross links between adjacent polymer chain considerably limit the movement of the cellulose molecules so that creasing is more difficult.
The types of chemicals used for crease resistant for cotton are condensation products of the urea-formaldehyde. 

This are
a)    Urea / Formaldehyde(U/F)
      e.g.  Dimethylol urea.
b)    Melamine / Formaldehyde
e.g. Trimethylol Melamine
c)    Dimethylol ethylene urea (DMEU)
d)    Dimethylol-4,5-Dihudroxyethylene urea(DMDHEU)
 

Sequestering agent:
A sequestering or chelating agent is a complex forming auxiliary chemical with metals such as Iron, Copper, Nickel, Zinc & Magnesium that are present in water and affects the textile processing in many way. Certain organic compounds are capable of forming coordinate bonds with metals through two or more atoms of the organic compound; Such organic compounds are called chelating agents.

EDTA (CO2CH2)2NCH2CH2N(CH2CO2)2 is a common hex dentate chelating agent. Chlorophyll is a chelate that consists of a magnesium ion. Part of hemoglobin in blood is an iron chelate. Chelating agents are important in textile dyeing. Water softening and enzyme deactivation and as bactericides. Chelating agent eliminates water hardness & heavy metals Such as iron and copper which can affect the scouring process.

Some sequestering agents are -  
•    Tetra sodium pyrophosphate (TSPP)
•    Tripoly sodium phosphate (TSP)
•    Ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid (EDTA)
•    Nitrilo triacetic acid (NTA)
•    Ethylene diamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid) [EDTMP]
 

Wetting agent (Surfactants):
The word “Surfactants” is coined from the expression “Surface active agent”. As the phrase implies, a surfactant molecule possesses surface activity, a property associated with the chemical structure of the molecule. A few primary functions of auxiliaries are: 

•  To prepare the material perfectly for coloration or to enhance whiteness of white goods.
• To improve sorption characteristics of the colorants by acceleration, retardation, blocking or migration.
• To stabilize colorant in the application media by improving solubility, dispersion, emulsification, preventing or promoting oxidation or reduction, etc.
• To improve fastness of dyes.

Classification Wetting agent:
The surfactants used as textile auxiliaries can be divided into four major groups, depending on the type and distribution of the polar forces as shown in table –

CLASS    HYDROPHOBIC    HYDROPHILIC
Anionic    Weakly negative    Strongly positive
Cationic    Weakly positive    Strongly negative
Nonionic    Unchanged    Unchanged
Amphotaric    Both positive & negative    Both positive & negative

Salt:
For level dyeing of cotton fiber with reactive dye we need two types of force in the dye bath. These are:-
•    Force of attraction: - Which should be developed between the dye molecule and fiber.
•    Force of repulsion: - Which should be developed between the dye molecule and water.

But when the fiber is in water it become (-)ve charged and the dye in water is also (-) vely charged. So following condition arise.  

Mechanism of salt in textile dyeing
 

OBA(Optical Brightening Agent):
The OBA possesses the property of fluorescence which means that they can absorb shorter wave-length light and re-emit it at longer wave-lengths. It absorbs invisible ultra-violet rays and re-emits them within the visible spectrum. So substance contain OBA can emit more than the total amount of daylight that falls on it, giving an intensity brilliant white.
For cotton fiber anionic OBA is used.
 

Enzyme:
Enzymes are high molecular weight protein biocatalyst that is very specific in their action. Enzymes are named after the compound they break down, for example, Amylase breaks down amylose and amylopectin. Maltase breaks down maltase and cellulose breaks down cellulose.

Enzyme consists of three-dimensional proteins that are composed of polypeptide chains. However, the mechanism of hydrolysis of cellulosic material is complicated. The enzymes have a specific three dimensional shape and have a true active center in the form of fissures, holes, pockets, cavities or hollows. These are adsorbed onto the surface of some substrate in lock and key fashion. At the active side of the enzyme, hydrolysis of he substrate is accelerated. The product of decomposition of the substrate is formed and the enzyme is released to be reabsorbed onto a different location on the substrate. The process continues until the enzyme is deactivated by conditions in the processing bath.
Others dyeing auxiliaries are-

 Detergent: It is mainly used for cleaning grey fabric.

Anti-foaming Agent: It is used to protect foam during dyeing.

Stabilizer: It is used for removing iron of water. It also increase the activity of  H2O2.

Oil remover: It is used to remove oil or oil type substance.

Caustic soda or NaOH: It is used to clean the fabric. It is the main chemical of scouring process. When it is used in Dye bath, then it is used to fix up the Dye molecule in the fabric surface.
 

Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2): It is used as a Bleaching agent. It is used to remove the natural colour of grey fabric. It makes the fabric more white . Other name of it Brightening agent. It is also used to remove waste of detergent, caustic & fabric.

Peroxide killer: It is used to remove the action of  H2O2. Enzyme base H2O2 killer is used in DELTA.

Acetic Acid: In scouring bath Acetic Acid is used for pH    controlling . After treatment, it is used for neutralizing, Because  before using Acid, soda must be used. For this reason, to neutralize  that chamber Acid must be used.

Leveling: It is used for level or even dyeing .

Gluber salt (Na2SO4.10H2O): It acts as carrier. It bears dye molecule into fiber      surface. In other word, It reaches the dye   molecule     into fiber surface     properly but not fix up. In this treatment, at about     20% dye fixation is     completed.

Soda ash: It is used to attach the dye molecule into fabric surface. It is also used  to fix up the dye molecule into the fabric surface. After soaping, if carrier is used then colour must be removed (this operation is performed when     more dark shade will appear but needed light colour).

Soaping:  It is used to clean the fabric.

Softener: It is used for soft. It makes the dyed fabric more soft or     smoothness. It increase the smoothness of dyed fabric.

Fixing agent: It is used to fix up the extra colour.

What is Yarn ? Types of Yarn | Yarn Manufacturing

Yarn is an assembles of textile fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric. Basically it is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for use in the production of textiles materials ( Specially for sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, and rope making etc.)

So a yarn is a strand of natural or man-made fibers or filaments that have been twisted or grouped together for use in weaving, knitting or other methods of constructing textile fabrics. Types of yarns to be manufactured is dependent on the selection of fibers such as texture, or hand, the fabric to be made as well as qualities such as warmth, resiliency, softness and durability required in the fabrics end uses as well.

A Typical Yarn Classification Chart:

Types of Yarn:

According to their structure

Staple Yarn:

 Spun yarns are made by mechanical assembly and twisting together ( spinning) of staple fibers. Ring spinning, rotor spinning, wrap spinning, air-jet spinning etc. Machines are used to produce this types of yarns.

Ply Yarns:

Single yarns are used in the majority of fabrics for normal textile and clothing applications, but in order to obtain special yarn features, particularly high strength and modulus for technical and industrial applications, ply yarns are often needed. A folded or ply yarn is produced by twisting two or more single yarns together in one operation and a cabled yarn is formed by twisting together two or more folded yarns or a combination of folded and single yarns.

Filament Yarns:

Filament or Continuous filament (CF) yarns are basically unbroken lengths of filaments, which include natural silk and filaments extruded from synthetic polymers (e.g.,polyester, nylon, polypropylene, acrylics) and from modified natural polymers (e.g., viscose rayon). Such filaments are twisted or entangled to produce a CF yarn. CF yarns can be subdivided into untextured (i.e., flat) and textured yarns.

According to their use

Weaving yarns:

 Yarns for woven cloths are prepared for the intended end use. yarns to be used in the warp, the lengthwise direction of a cloth, are generally stronger, have a tighter twist and are smoother and more even than are yarns used for filling the crosswise direction of a cloth.

Knitting Yarns:

This type of yarns are divided into yarns for hand and machine knitting. Knitting yarns are more slackly twisted than yarns for weaving. Hand knitting yarns are generally ply, whereas those for machine knitting can be either single or plied.

Special Yarns

Textured Yarns:

Novelty Yarns:

What is Yarn ? Types of Yarn | Yarn Manufacturing

Posted by Firoz Kabir 1 comment

Yarn is an assembles of textile fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric. Basically it is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for use in the production of textiles materials ( Specially for sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, and rope making etc.)

So a yarn is a strand of natural or man-made fibers or filaments that have been twisted or grouped together for use in weaving, knitting or other methods of constructing textile fabrics. Types of yarns to be manufactured is dependent on the selection of fibers such as texture, or hand, the fabric to be made as well as qualities such as warmth, resiliency, softness and durability required in the fabrics end uses as well.

A Typical Yarn Classification Chart:

Types of Yarn:

According to their structure

Staple Yarn:

 Spun yarns are made by mechanical assembly and twisting together ( spinning) of staple fibers. Ring spinning, rotor spinning, wrap spinning, air-jet spinning etc. Machines are used to produce this types of yarns.

Ply Yarns:

Single yarns are used in the majority of fabrics for normal textile and clothing applications, but in order to obtain special yarn features, particularly high strength and modulus for technical and industrial applications, ply yarns are often needed. A folded or ply yarn is produced by twisting two or more single yarns together in one operation and a cabled yarn is formed by twisting together two or more folded yarns or a combination of folded and single yarns.

Filament Yarns:

Filament or Continuous filament (CF) yarns are basically unbroken lengths of filaments, which include natural silk and filaments extruded from synthetic polymers (e.g.,polyester, nylon, polypropylene, acrylics) and from modified natural polymers (e.g., viscose rayon). Such filaments are twisted or entangled to produce a CF yarn. CF yarns can be subdivided into untextured (i.e., flat) and textured yarns.

According to their use

Weaving yarns:

 Yarns for woven cloths are prepared for the intended end use. yarns to be used in the warp, the lengthwise direction of a cloth, are generally stronger, have a tighter twist and are smoother and more even than are yarns used for filling the crosswise direction of a cloth.

Knitting Yarns:

This type of yarns are divided into yarns for hand and machine knitting. Knitting yarns are more slackly twisted than yarns for weaving. Hand knitting yarns are generally ply, whereas those for machine knitting can be either single or plied.

Special Yarns

Textured Yarns:

Novelty Yarns: